I've been a web designer/developer for almost 10 years and use Dreamweaver. I'm a hand coder and like that Dreamweaver gives me a visual idea of what's going on with the split code/design view. Code coloring is also a godsend over just a plain black text for differentiating between tags. The built-in FTP and site management features are real time savers.
As far as learning HTML or any other web language, some of the best tools are free! Dreamweaver comes with a quick start guide & some good tutorials. There are numerous websites that offer free tutorials (i.e. http://www.dmxzone.com/
). As for books I like the desk reference variety over the "learn XXX in 21 days". The Dreamweaver Bible is a pretty good general DW book.
If your initial goal is to start with a basic website, the quick start & Macromedia supplied tutorial should easily have you up and running within a weekend. Dreamweaver has many built-in and downloadable extensions that allow creation of pages with point-click / Drag-drop simplicity. If you use the split view, you can see what code is being adding and where. This can also be a very valuable learning tool.
Dreamweaver, GoLive, and most others offer free 30 trial versions.