Calibration tips?

in Genius Bar edited January 2014
I have a ASD 17 inch Graphite at home...... I think it could use a little fine tuning though.

I did the colorsync calibration but only the standard version, didn't do expert. Any tips on calibration?


  • Reply 1 of 8
    ast3r3xast3r3x Posts: 5,012member
    What do you need to have it calibrated for? Printing or just to be more on for some odd reason?
  • Reply 2 of 8
    Supercal is also highly recommended.

    Will the ambient room lighting be constant?

    (ie: only ever used under fluorescent -ek- , gets glaring morning/aft sun, in cave, etc)

    You can save multiple profiles, each optimized/calibrated under that lighting, if so desired.

    Might be interesting to test, YMMV.
  • Reply 3 of 8
    buonrottobuonrotto Posts: 6,368member
    Using Panther or Jag? Panther's expert colorsync calibration is much more complete. also, using it for others to see, i.e., web? If so, use 2.2 gamma like windows machines and TVs. If not or if the stuff is going to print, traditional Mac 1.8 gamma is fine.

    I usually set my white point/temperature to about 6500K, though as mentioned, tungsten or fluorescent lighting in the room might need something cooler to get a more accurate looking white point on screen. That might mean cooler colors in prints or on others' computers though.
  • Reply 4 of 8
    applenutapplenut Posts: 5,768member
    just for normal use and print since i mostly do photo editing and stuff on this since its the one with the printer and bigger screen.

    I have flueroscent lighting. not too bright though....hard to explain.

    running panther
  • Reply 5 of 8
    ast3r3xast3r3x Posts: 5,012member
    Well we have one of those fancy $350 Spyder calibrators at work, and it works fine on the CRT, but on the LCD it is still off. We have found it best to use that to get the color extremely close and then work on temperature and fine adjustments with other freeware programs. We just make them look as close as possible to the printed product in daylight.

    That is the monitor is normally in shittier florescent light or other types, and pictures tend to be displayed in daylight so you have to have the picture in daylight to compare to your florescent or whatever light monitor. Hope you have a good eye
  • Reply 6 of 8
    moogsmoogs Posts: 4,296member
    If you're going to do it manually I concur that SuperCal is the tool to use, though Panther's calibration tools have improved as well as their ICC profile mgmt tools. Otherwise I'd try the Spyder and OptiCAL 3.7.x. I have one (admittedly for a CRT) but I've heard others who use LCDs are happy as well.
  • Reply 7 of 8
    dobbydobby Posts: 797member
    Are LCDs as colour accurate as CRTs?

  • Reply 8 of 8
    ast3r3xast3r3x Posts: 5,012member

    Originally posted by dobby

    Are LCDs as colour accurate as CRTs?


    I wonder too, because LCD's when calibrated just seem so much more vibrant that I don't see how you can compare.
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