Perhaps its just me...I've had the best results on the cheapest media (Unbranded, no spindle, shrink wrapped in 100's). Data is usually no problem whatever CD's I use but car stereos and home Hi-Fi seem a little adverse to anything branded (with a printed side). Cheaper equipment does seem less fussy even with this.
Go cheap... if it doesn't work out you've lost less. Use a premium brand and if it works you'll continue to use it without knowing if you could save some money.
<strong>Perhaps its just me...I've had the best results on the cheapest media (Unbranded, no spindle, shrink wrapped in 100's). Data is usually no problem whatever CD's I use but car stereos and home Hi-Fi seem a little adverse to anything branded (with a printed side). Cheaper equipment does seem less fussy even with this.
Go cheap... if it doesn't work out you've lost less. Use a premium brand and if it works you'll continue to use it without knowing if you could save some money.</strong><hr></blockquote>
Good advice. I sometimes buy the cheap CompUSA ones that come in the 100 pack, no spindel and have no labels. Never had a problem with those either.
<strong>If you want high quality CD-R's, there is nothing like Kodaks.
kodak.com usually has specials.
I don't think Kodak sells any CD-R's that don't have gold content in them.
I usually buy 5-6 boxes of Kodaks for stuff I want to keep 25+ years with no quality loss. i buy a huge cheapo spindle of noname for stuff I throw away every 2 years.</strong><hr></blockquote>
I say, Stay away from Kodak. We had them were I work. They were so bad we ened up just thowing away the whole spindel. Out of 10 CDs were were able to maybe 2 to even mount. (I had even taken some home to try on my burner and still didnt get too far). The ones that did work didnt last long. We had called the manufacture of the burner and they said that Kodak CD-Rs were known for problems. We ended up getting some cheaper TDKs and they worked like a dream.
Well, people's experiences seem entirely random, but to throw in my random experiences:
Imation and TDK have been very reliable.. Been through 100 of each, with no coasters that weren't my fault or software's fault. No problem with audio CDs, in a variety of players.
Horrible experience with Memorex. The top side flaked metal foil like it had dandruff.
I say, Stay away from Kodak. We had them were I work. They were so bad we ened up just thowing away the whole spindel. Out of 10 CDs were were able to maybe 2 to even mount. (I had even taken some home to try on my burner and still didnt get too far). The ones that did work didnt last long. We had called the manufacture of the burner and they said that Kodak CD-Rs were known for problems. We ended up getting some cheaper TDKs and they worked like a dream.</strong><hr></blockquote>
I've had wonderful experiences with the Kodak ones...used them to back up all sorts of school projects and other things.
I have an feeling that certain brands work better with certain burners. Memorex and my Yamaha work beautifully together. I think I have only managed 3 coasters out of the last 100 discs I have burned, and generally because I am doing some heavy work in X (causing buffer underrun errors).
So, for me, the Memorex-yamaha thing works well. Perhaps those who hate memorex should post their burners and see if there is anything consistent here.
I've been pulling my freakin' hair out here trying to burn a goddamned CD on my new 667 DVI Ti Book. Kept getting damn errors. Tried in OS9, OSX, did a clean reinstall onto the 5 GB partition I made for messing around on, and it still didn't work.
Then, for the hell of it, I tossed in the CD-R that came with the PowerBook. Burned perfectly.
It's these ****ing GIGASTORAGE CD-Rs, they won't work in the PowerBook! I tried another right after burning one correctly with the Apple supplied Verbatim CD-R, and it wouldn't go.
These worked fine in my iMac and PowerMac, but the PowerBook pukes them out and tells me to get that crap out of it. That's fine, except I have 50 of these things sitting here now. Niiice.
i've been burning since single speed were top of the line, and i cay say without a doubt they are the best cd's out there. i have cd's i burned 7 years ago still working perfectly today. but only the verbatim cd's.
the others work, but if you're making something you really want to still be around in 5-10 years, save yourself a lot of headaches and go with verbatim.
personally, i think the easier it is to see the burn demarcation the better the cd's.
just found about this recently, but MANY CD players have problems playing CDs that are rated for 16x or higher. in fact, check around the net for firmware updates for computer CD players, and you will find that many of the firmware updates were released to fix this little problem. unfortunately, i have no idea how you would fix this for a car stereo (i.e. something you could not easily remove the player from).
Imation have been the most reliable for me, by far...I cant recall ever having a reject, except if I try to burn audio at higher than 8-speed on a Yamaha CDR 2100 Lightspeed (buffer underrun error messages). However data (mac files and folders etc) always works at 12 or 16 speed with Imations.
I've found that some name brands (TDK, Maxell, Sony) can be horribly unreliable...data CDs burned in Toast sometimes wont be recognized in certain computers, and audio CDs burned in Jam or MasterList often wont play in a regular CD player!
Comments
Go cheap... if it doesn't work out you've lost less. Use a premium brand and if it works you'll continue to use it without knowing if you could save some money.
<strong>Perhaps its just me...I've had the best results on the cheapest media (Unbranded, no spindle, shrink wrapped in 100's). Data is usually no problem whatever CD's I use but car stereos and home Hi-Fi seem a little adverse to anything branded (with a printed side). Cheaper equipment does seem less fussy even with this.
Go cheap... if it doesn't work out you've lost less. Use a premium brand and if it works you'll continue to use it without knowing if you could save some money.</strong><hr></blockquote>
Good advice. I sometimes buy the cheap CompUSA ones that come in the 100 pack, no spindel and have no labels. Never had a problem with those either.
<strong>If you want high quality CD-R's, there is nothing like Kodaks.
kodak.com usually has specials.
I don't think Kodak sells any CD-R's that don't have gold content in them.
I usually buy 5-6 boxes of Kodaks for stuff I want to keep 25+ years with no quality loss. i buy a huge cheapo spindle of noname for stuff I throw away every 2 years.</strong><hr></blockquote>
I say, Stay away from Kodak. We had them were I work. They were so bad we ened up just thowing away the whole spindel. Out of 10 CDs were were able to maybe 2 to even mount. (I had even taken some home to try on my burner and still didnt get too far). The ones that did work didnt last long. We had called the manufacture of the burner and they said that Kodak CD-Rs were known for problems. We ended up getting some cheaper TDKs and they worked like a dream.
Imation and TDK have been very reliable.. Been through 100 of each, with no coasters that weren't my fault or software's fault. No problem with audio CDs, in a variety of players.
Horrible experience with Memorex. The top side flaked metal foil like it had dandruff.
-robo
TDK discs are probably the 'best' as far as the relatively inexpensive ones go. Yamaha has nice expensive ones.
Just hope the Canadians don't implement a storage tax like they've been proposing.
<strong>
I say, Stay away from Kodak. We had them were I work. They were so bad we ened up just thowing away the whole spindel. Out of 10 CDs were were able to maybe 2 to even mount. (I had even taken some home to try on my burner and still didnt get too far). The ones that did work didnt last long. We had called the manufacture of the burner and they said that Kodak CD-Rs were known for problems. We ended up getting some cheaper TDKs and they worked like a dream.</strong><hr></blockquote>
I've had wonderful experiences with the Kodak ones...used them to back up all sorts of school projects and other things.
Also PNY disks have worked fine for me.
Hope this helps
Just hope the Canadians don't implement a storage tax like they've been proposing.
Too late! It's already been effect for years!
So, for me, the Memorex-yamaha thing works well. Perhaps those who hate memorex should post their burners and see if there is anything consistent here.
Mandricard
AppleOutsider
I've been pulling my freakin' hair out here trying to burn a goddamned CD on my new 667 DVI Ti Book. Kept getting damn errors. Tried in OS9, OSX, did a clean reinstall onto the 5 GB partition I made for messing around on, and it still didn't work.
Then, for the hell of it, I tossed in the CD-R that came with the PowerBook. Burned perfectly.
It's these ****ing GIGASTORAGE CD-Rs, they won't work in the PowerBook! I tried another right after burning one correctly with the Apple supplied Verbatim CD-R, and it wouldn't go.
These worked fine in my iMac and PowerMac, but the PowerBook pukes them out and tells me to get that crap out of it. That's fine, except I have 50 of these things sitting here now. Niiice.
Guess I'm off to buy some CD-Rs.
i've been burning since single speed were top of the line, and i cay say without a doubt they are the best cd's out there. i have cd's i burned 7 years ago still working perfectly today. but only the verbatim cd's.
the others work, but if you're making something you really want to still be around in 5-10 years, save yourself a lot of headaches and go with verbatim.
personally, i think the easier it is to see the burn demarcation the better the cd's.
oh, and i vote for verbatim as well.
I've found that some name brands (TDK, Maxell, Sony) can be horribly unreliable...data CDs burned in Toast sometimes wont be recognized in certain computers, and audio CDs burned in Jam or MasterList often wont play in a regular CD player!