As someone who has always built things, and who has woodworking, plastics, electronics and metal working and machine shops, I can say that having something on the bottom of the wrist is courting disaster.
Ahh ... I too have metalworking / woodworking experience ...
Two overarching rules I learned:
Remove all jewelry, rings, watches, bracelets, chains, necklaces, pendants, loose clothing -- everything -- before starting any power tool!
Count your fingers before starting any power tool!
Here's an example of a little puzzle I made: A pennyhedron (quarterhedron, actually) -- this little gem was made from C-Grade Exterior 3/4 Plywood:
While it may work for some people, when you put your wrist down, which side ends up hitting the surface? If my watch was on the bottom, I would have destroyed it long ago. The bottom of my wrist is always banging up against something that's solid metal.
My experience is just the opposite ... When I wore a watch on the outside of my wrist, it was always hitting things -- breaking or scratching the crystal. On the inside of the wrist it was protected from outside contact. As mentioned earlier, I don't type, and I seldom lay my hands down with the inside of the wrists contacting the surface -- usually it is the bottom of the wrists with the hands perpendicular to the surface. Also, on a date or a boring meeting, I could surreptitiously glance at the watch without anyone being aware of it -- a great social advantage.
I get the ease you're speaking about. It's a natural position. But the practicality of it worries me. Put your wrist down on a table. How would it feel with a half inch bulge on the bottom that you also know must be handled carefully?
Maybe, somehow, the speaker and mic could be there, if they're thin.
YMMV. For those who prefer, the mic/speaker could be in the bottom/edge of the watch or in the band. (The positive physical connection of the Apple Watch and its band suggest lots of electronic possibilities).
IDK about sensors on the watch -- with BLE and WiFi it would be more practical to interface the sensors to the attendant iPhone.
The mind thing has real potential -- especially when combined with our other senses. I don't know how, but I understand that amputees can feel pain in missing limbs ... Sight/smell triggers appetite ... The sight/thought of a pretty woman ... Watching a football game on the tube, I find myself lurching with the running back as he goes through the line ... WiFiSlam can determine where you are by analyzing dissonant radio waves and recognizing fingerprints -- couldn't the meaning of your individual brainwaves be analyzed and recognized in a similar manner? And, it doesn't need to be 100% accurate -- it can present 3-4 best estimates and let you choose!
Ooops ... there's the bell. Gotta' go, it's feeding time
Feeding time? are you living in a zoo?
Ok, I've mentioned this once or twice over the years. Over twenty years ago I had a thought about this which I wrote about, and have discussed a bit over the intervening years.
Humans are very adaptable. We can take people out of the jungle, and mostly, they can adapt to modern life. That's one heck of a lurch. But sometimes we have philosophies, mostly theological in nature, that don't want new ideas as they see them as a threat, and that's usually right.
But even aside from that, people can have incorrect ideas about new things. For example, in the early 19th century, people were afraid of these new railroad things. They were convinced that traveling over 32 miles an hour would create a vacuum that would suffocate them. Seems irrational now, but there were some "scientific" reasons why they thought that.
Move forwards, and we see people with irrational ideas about vaccines, and other beneficial technologies. So now we see talk about cloning. There is a great fear among some parts of the populous about cloning, but even more about human cloning. Human cloning will be extremely hard, because cloning primates has been shown to be very difficult. It hasn't been done yet, because there are things about primates that make it almost impossible. But someday, it will happen.
Ok, I understand why it might frighten people, and get the theological battle lines drawn up. But if not done here, it will be done in the rest of the world with a different outlook.
So now I have my idea, which also frightens some people, particularly these days with the big brother thing going on. But I'm also beginning to read others writing about it, so maybe it might have a chance.
Sometime late this century, or early next century, assuming that global warming doesn't begin to destroy civilization, computer technology will have advanced to levels we can't really imagine. SiFi novels only touch upon this. There has been work on organic molecules for computing and memory going on for almost thirty years. Some breakthroughs have happened, but it's still a long way off.
So, back to my idea, which even a few scientists are now beginning to think is possible. I've been saying that at some point in the future, when an embryo becomes vital, an organic/electronic computer bud will be emplanted within that embryo. That bud will contain something akin to DNA, and will grow with the embryo, and in later stages, the fetus.
This computer will infiltrate every nerve, in fact, most every structure within our bodies, including parts of the brain. It will be so integrated, that it will seem like a natural part of us.
It will have numerous functions. It will keep track of our health, intervening when required to fix problems. It will be able to rally the immune system, recognize real viruses, and eliminate them. Keep our body toned. Essentially, it will do whatever it needs to to keep us healthy, and perhaps to extend our lives.
But in addition, we will have access to the computing power, which will be vast, by today's standards, and a vast memory. Just think of a math problem, and the solution will be there. Or anything, actually. It will have immediate access to all networks and information. We will even have what we could think of as telepathy. No reason why a low power radio couldn't be part of the package. Think of anyone fairly near you, and you could contact them. For longer range access, use the networks.
Yeah, I know this is far out, and some people will always find reasons why it couldn't, or shouldn't be so, but I'm pretty sure that at some point in time, it will happen. If there is one thing we know about humans, it's that if they can do something, they will do it.
In many ways that is scary -- it removes chance and mitigates failure ... How does one fall in love ... learn from their mistakes ... strive to be the best ...
Ahh ... I too have metalworking / woodworking experience ...
Two overarching rules I learned:
Remove all jewelry, rings, watches, bracelets, chains, necklaces, pendants, loose clothing -- everything -- before starting any power tool!
Count your fingers before starting any power tool!
Here's an example of a little puzzle I made: A pennyhedron (quarterhedron, actually) -- this little gem was made from C-Grade Exterior 3/4 Plywood:
My experience is just the opposite ... When I wore a watch on the outside of my wrist, it was always hitting things -- breaking or scratching the crystal. On the inside of the wrist it was protected from outside contact. As mentioned earlier, I don't type, and I seldom lay my hands down with the inside of the wrists contacting the surface -- usually it is the bottom of the wrists with the hands perpendicular to the surface. Also, on a date or a boring meeting, I could surreptitiously glance at the watch without anyone being aware of it -- a great social advantage.
YMMV. For those who prefer, the mic/speaker could be in the bottom/edge of the watch or in the band. (The positive physical connection of the Apple Watch and its band suggest lots of electronic possibilities).
Ah, you don't want me to start posting pictures now, do you?
In many ways that is scary -- it removes chance and mitigates failure ... How does one fall in love ... learn from their mistakes ... strive to be the best ...
Ah, you don't want me to start posting pictures now, do you?
LOL. Sure!
Actually, I would very much enjoy seeing some of your work!
I have no pictures, but the most difficult metalworking challenge I had was in HS Shop. I played the trumpet and made a Jazz mouthpiece -- seems simple enough, eh?
Problem is, the stem of a trumpet mouthpiece has a hole that tapers from about 5/8 inch at the trumpet end to about 1/32 inch at the cup (lip end). I had to design and make a taper drill in order to make the mouthpiece -- everybody else was making knurled chisels or nail sets
The most fun I had with woodworking was a 16" x 16" x 16" Southwestern Table/Stool (called a tarima) that I designed and made from a single 8' 2x4 ... top, aprons, legs -- a single 8' 2x4.
In many ways that is scary -- it removes chance and mitigates failure ... How does one fall in love ... learn from their mistakes ... strive to be the best ...
I imagine you'd still be thinking for yourself, still be able to see beauty and ugliness. Still be able to fall in love.
Thx for the link -- very timely.
But will I be able to play the banjo?
AIR, in "The Demo" by Doug Englebart, along with the mouse he also used a one-handed 5-key chord KB to enter text and commands. AIR, they did some special training and typists were able to increase speed and accuracy over a QWERTY KB.
Odd .. the mouse caught on but the Chord KB never did.
AIR, in "The Demo" by Doug Englebart, along with the mouse he also used a one-handed 5-key chord KB to enter text and commands. AIR, they did some special training and typists were able to increase speed and accuracy over a QWERTY KB.
Odd .. the mouse caught on but the Chord KB never did.
I don't know why you should be able to play it, I can't.
That's a light for my friend's studio that I designed and built. You can see who is the model, and who is the photographer. This is also the guy I test medium format backs with.
That's part of the front of the frame, in my shop. At the bottom, you can see the 17" diameter bearing so that frame can swivel around. Oops, when I enlarged it, I noticed that this pic doesn't have the big bearing.
That's an aluminum frame for four drivers for speaker systems I've made for a friend. One on the front, and one on the rear. I also cut the wood parts, and I made him assemble it so that he would have some sweat equity out od it. In the right, in the dark, you can see the guy I did it for. It was exhibited at the Wanhington Audio show, the Capitalfest.
Part of a costume I built for one of my daughter's ComicCon events.
Anyway, that just a little bit of stuff. Too much to put down here, and a lot isn't at home. I just took most of those pics with my iPhone or my iPad, so the quality is just so so because I didn't do any lighting.
And I figure that if you made it through all this, you should see one pic from the studio taken with that light.
Ok, let's see. I have some photos on my iPad here. Let's see if I can post a couple or three.
That's a light for my friend's studio that I designed and built. You can see who is the model, and who is the photographer. This is also the guy I test medium format backs with.
Wow! That's way beyond my metalworking skills -- Impressed! I'll limit my comments, mostly. to the woodworking.
That's part of the front of the frame, in my shop. At the bottom, you can see the 17" diameter bearing so that frame can swivel around. Oops, when I enlarged it, I noticed that this pic doesn't have the big bearing.
Do I detect the ways for an Incra Fence system? It is interesting that you're using the saw table for metalwork assembly -- do you use any of the saw jigs, or is it just a convenience/space issue?
Ok, this should contain the bearing. There are actually two, on at the bottom that is easy to see, and one under the plate at the top.
That's an aluminum frame for four drivers for speaker systems I've made for a friend. One on the front, and one on the rear. I also cut the wood parts, and I made him assemble it so that he would have some sweat equity out od it. In the right, in the dark, you can see the guy I did it for. It was exhibited at the Wanhington Audio show, the Capitalfest.
Maple, isn't it? I like the mixture of industrial design and fine woodworking!
The rear of the finished speaker.
Record cabinet. I made the parts for another, but haven't had the time to put it together. I veneered the wood panels, and stained and varnished them.
I like it! Cherry? Mahogany? I never had much luck/patience with varnish. I used to use gloss Varathane brand poly (no hardners) and lightly sand to a semi-gloss. It's great when working with distressed wood -- as you can fill in voids/knots with clear epoxy, before finishing.
Do you hav a veneer press? -- I've found that a Foodsaver works for most needs.
Done any work with burl, laminations or book matching? I've found that using the Incra Fence you can make consistent, [almost] paper-thin cuts for laminations or even kerfs for wood bending?
The audio video cabinet all the work is from a vendor on eBay, Cooke Woods. Solid wood for every wood part. You can't see the pieces for the top.
Parts from an audio video cabinet I'm building for a friend.
One of eight feet I built for my current speaker system. It came with spikes, which I abhore. These cushion the speaker from the floor.
The speakers without the front grill. They're 7 feet high.
Questions:
There appear to be speakers on the side -- what's that about?
Don't you need some kind of enclosure back/sound box for the speakers.
Couldn't the speaker cabinet (assuming enclosed cabinet, here) have a solid base (between the upper cabinet and the floor) where the upper cabinet, including the spikes, float (within reason) above the solid base?
Have you done anything with folded horns?
Part of a costume I built for one of my daughter's ComicCon events.
Anyway, that just a little bit of stuff. Too much to put down here, and a lot isn't at home. I just took most of those pics with my iPhone or my iPad, so the quality is just so so because I didn't do any lighting.
And I figure that if you made it through all this, you should see one pic from the studio taken with that light.
Ahh ... the condition reflex alluded to in a prior post ... Nice ending!
Wow! That's way beyond my metalworking skills -- Impressed! I'll limit my comments, mostly. to the woodworking.
Do I detect the ways for an Incra Fence system? It is interesting that you're using the saw table for metalwork assembly -- do you use any of the saw jigs, or is it just a convenience/space issue?
Yes, that's an Incra fence. Great fence! I modded it. I also convinced the owner of the company to make a longer track for me. The cutting jig, it a crosscut fence that I made. It uses 80/20, which are the extrusions I use for a lot of my work. As you can imagine, cutting metal is more critical than cutting wood. The fence, part of which you can see in the pic of the parts I'm making for my friends audio video cabinet, uses both slots in the saw table. Hardened steel 3/4 x3/8 for more rigidity. In fact, just like my metal cutting machines, there is absolutely no play when moving the cross cuts.
Here, in these pics, you can see the fence better.
It's set up to cut 2.5" from that extrusion you can see. The blade is a
Freud commercial non-ferris metal cutting blade. The saw weighs 500 pounds, and has a 3 horse motor, wired 220. A long time ago, when I first got the saw, I removed the blade spindle and trued the back on my lathe.
Maple, isn't it? I like the mixture of industrial design and fine woodworking!
Actually, it's Baltic ply, with a maple veneer. No stain, just three coats of Minwax poly.
I like it! Cherry? Mahogany? I never had much luck/patience with varnish. I used to use gloss Varathane brand poly (no hardners) and lightly sand to a semi-gloss. It's great when working with distressed wood -- as you can fill in voids/knots with clear epoxy, before finishing.
The veneer on that is fiddleback. I used a dense MDF for the sides and shelves. The lighting is LED. If you touch the frame anywhere, the lights come on, touch again, and they go off.
Do you hav a veneer press? -- I've found that a Foodsaver works for most needs.
I have a vacuum press. It's a pain to use, but the results are better.
Done any work with burl, laminations or book matching? I've found that using the Incra Fence you can make consistent, [almost] paper-thin cuts for laminations or even kerfs for wood bending?
Some work with burl, not too much. I've done laminations for curved work. It's actually a lot of fun to do because the results are so satisfying. Some book matching. Normally, I much prefer solid stock. Yeah, the Incra fence is great. That dial really allows fine graduations to a thou. But if your blade doesn't really run true, it won't work too well with really thin pieces. Of course, the limitations of blade height come into effect. I usually cut wider pieces on my bandsaw, then thin them down with the planer.
Questions:
There appear to be speakers on the side -- what's that about?
Don't you need some kind of enclosure back/sound box for the speakers.
Couldn't the speaker cabinet (assuming enclosed cabinet, here) have a solid base (between the upper cabinet and the floor) where the upper cabinet, including the spikes, float (within reason) above the solid base?
Have you done anything with folded horns?
Ahh ... the condition reflex alluded to in a prior post ... Nice ending!
The bottom box contains four 8" drivers. Two face front, and one on each side. In trying to help the manufacturer, BG Radia, with these speakers, I told them that the design of the bass, i.e., the box and drivers wasn't proper. After all my company designed the progenitor to this design, and held the patents. They didn't do it right. So, it performs very well down to about 70Hz, but then gives up at higher levels below that. That forced me to tri-amp, which I wasn't intending to do. Actually, I wasn't going to get the boxes at all, but they wanted me to have them in case people came over to hear the things.
It turned out that those boxes do very well with male voices in that range, so I kept the. By the way, I digitally equalize my speakers.
As for the rest, these are planar ribbon drivers, and the design is a dipole. That is, the sound is projected forwards and to the rear in a figure eight pattern. I have another mod that you can't see on these, which are acrylic panels that I made that help control the sound.
I'm not sure what your meaning is with your suggestions. But the bass drivers are normally on the bottom. The ribbons begin at about 120Hz, and go to about 25KHz. They must be on top.
I'm not a horn guy. I find the horn resonances to be too much for me, and there's no known way to eliminate them. But I have a friend who built horns. Here's a pic, they're 7.5' tall, for reference,
Comments
Ahh ... I too have metalworking / woodworking experience ...
Two overarching rules I learned:
Here's an example of a little puzzle I made: A pennyhedron (quarterhedron, actually) -- this little gem was made from C-Grade Exterior 3/4 Plywood:
My experience is just the opposite ... When I wore a watch on the outside of my wrist, it was always hitting things -- breaking or scratching the crystal. On the inside of the wrist it was protected from outside contact. As mentioned earlier, I don't type, and I seldom lay my hands down with the inside of the wrists contacting the surface -- usually it is the bottom of the wrists with the hands perpendicular to the surface. Also, on a date or a boring meeting, I could surreptitiously glance at the watch without anyone being aware of it -- a great social advantage.
YMMV. For those who prefer, the mic/speaker could be in the bottom/edge of the watch or in the band. (The positive physical connection of the Apple Watch and its band suggest lots of electronic possibilities).
In many ways that is scary -- it removes chance and mitigates failure ... How does one fall in love ... learn from their mistakes ... strive to be the best ...
But, I agree it will happen!
Ah, you don't want me to start posting pictures now, do you?
And, I just read this, very timely.
http://www.infoworld.com/article/2872529/computer-hardware/goodbye-keyboard-the-future-of-input-devices-is-almost-here.html
I imagine you'd still be thinking for yourself, still be able to see beauty and ugliness. Still be able to fall in love.
LOL. Sure!
Actually, I would very much enjoy seeing some of your work!
I have no pictures, but the most difficult metalworking challenge I had was in HS Shop. I played the trumpet and made a Jazz mouthpiece -- seems simple enough, eh?
Problem is, the stem of a trumpet mouthpiece has a hole that tapers from about 5/8 inch at the trumpet end to about 1/32 inch at the cup (lip end). I had to design and make a taper drill in order to make the mouthpiece -- everybody else was making knurled chisels or nail sets
The most fun I had with woodworking was a 16" x 16" x 16" Southwestern Table/Stool (called a tarima) that I designed and made from a single 8' 2x4 ... top, aprons, legs -- a single 8' 2x4.
Thx for the link -- very timely.
But will I be able to play the banjo?
AIR, in "The Demo" by Doug Englebart, along with the mouse he also used a one-handed 5-key chord KB to enter text and commands. AIR, they did some special training and typists were able to increase speed and accuracy over a QWERTY KB.
Odd .. the mouse caught on but the Chord KB never did.
I don't know why you should be able to play it, I can't.
[IMG ALT=""]http://forums.appleinsider.com/content/type/61/id/54596/width/200/height/400[/IMG]
That's a light for my friend's studio that I designed and built. You can see who is the model, and who is the photographer. This is also the guy I test medium format backs with.
[IMG ALT=""]http://forums.appleinsider.com/content/type/61/id/54597/width/200/height/400[/IMG]
That's part of the front of the frame, in my shop. At the bottom, you can see the 17" diameter bearing so that frame can swivel around. Oops, when I enlarged it, I noticed that this pic doesn't have the big bearing.
[IMG ALT=""]http://forums.appleinsider.com/content/type/61/id/54606/width/200/height/400[/IMG]
Ok, this should contain the bearing. There are actually two, on at the bottom that is easy to see, and one under the plate at the top.
[IMG ALT=""]http://forums.appleinsider.com/content/type/61/id/54598/width/200/height/400[/IMG]
That's an aluminum frame for four drivers for speaker systems I've made for a friend. One on the front, and one on the rear. I also cut the wood parts, and I made him assemble it so that he would have some sweat equity out od it. In the right, in the dark, you can see the guy I did it for. It was exhibited at the Wanhington Audio show, the Capitalfest.
[IMG ALT=""]http://forums.appleinsider.com/content/type/61/id/54599/width/200/height/400[/IMG]
The rear of the finished speaker.
[IMG ALT=""]http://forums.appleinsider.com/content/type/61/id/54600/width/200/height/400[/IMG]
Record cabinet. I made the parts for another, but haven't had the time to put it together. I veneered the wood panels, and stained and varnished them.
[IMG ALT=""]http://forums.appleinsider.com/content/type/61/id/54601/width/200/height/400[/IMG]
The audio video cabinet all the work is from a vendor on eBay, Cooke Woods. Solid wood for every wood part. You can't see the pieces for the top.
[IMG ALT=""]http://forums.appleinsider.com/content/type/61/id/54602/width/200/height/400[/IMG]
Parts from an audio video cabinet I'm building for a friend.
[IMG ALT=""]http://forums.appleinsider.com/content/type/61/id/54603/width/200/height/400[/IMG]
One of eight feet I built for my current speaker system. It came with spikes, which I abhore. These cushion the speaker from the floor.
[IMG ALT=""]http://forums.appleinsider.com/content/type/61/id/54605/width/200/height/400[/IMG]
The speakers without the front grill. They're 7 feet high.
[IMG ALT=""]http://forums.appleinsider.com/content/type/61/id/54604/width/200/height/400[/IMG]
Part of a costume I built for one of my daughter's ComicCon events.
Anyway, that just a little bit of stuff. Too much to put down here, and a lot isn't at home. I just took most of those pics with my iPhone or my iPad, so the quality is just so so because I didn't do any lighting.
And I figure that if you made it through all this, you should see one pic from the studio taken with that light.
[IMG ALT=""]http://forums.appleinsider.com/content/type/61/id/54607/width/200/height/400[/IMG]
Wow! That's way beyond my metalworking skills -- Impressed! I'll limit my comments, mostly. to the woodworking.
Do I detect the ways for an Incra Fence system? It is interesting that you're using the saw table for metalwork assembly -- do you use any of the saw jigs, or is it just a convenience/space issue?
Maple, isn't it? I like the mixture of industrial design and fine woodworking!
I like it! Cherry? Mahogany? I never had much luck/patience with varnish. I used to use gloss Varathane brand poly (no hardners) and lightly sand to a semi-gloss. It's great when working with distressed wood -- as you can fill in voids/knots with clear epoxy, before finishing.
Do you hav a veneer press? -- I've found that a Foodsaver works for most needs.
Done any work with burl, laminations or book matching? I've found that using the Incra Fence you can make consistent, [almost] paper-thin cuts for laminations or even kerfs for wood bending?
Questions:
There appear to be speakers on the side -- what's that about?
Don't you need some kind of enclosure back/sound box for the speakers.
Couldn't the speaker cabinet (assuming enclosed cabinet, here) have a solid base (between the upper cabinet and the floor) where the upper cabinet, including the spikes, float (within reason) above the solid base?
Have you done anything with folded horns?
Ahh ... the condition reflex alluded to in a prior post ... Nice ending!
The bottom box contains four 8" drivers. Two face front, and one on each side. In trying to help the manufacturer, BG Radia, with these speakers, I told them that the design of the bass, i.e., the box and drivers wasn't proper. After all my company designed the progenitor to this design, and held the patents. They didn't do it right. So, it performs very well down to about 70Hz, but then gives up at higher levels below that. That forced me to tri-amp, which I wasn't intending to do. Actually, I wasn't going to get the boxes at all, but they wanted me to have them in case people came over to hear the things.
It turned out that those boxes do very well with male voices in that range, so I kept the. By the way, I digitally equalize my speakers.
As for the rest, these are planar ribbon drivers, and the design is a dipole. That is, the sound is projected forwards and to the rear in a figure eight pattern. I have another mod that you can't see on these, which are acrylic panels that I made that help control the sound.
I'm not sure what your meaning is with your suggestions. But the bass drivers are normally on the bottom. The ribbons begin at about 120Hz, and go to about 25KHz. They must be on top.
I'm not a horn guy. I find the horn resonances to be too much for me, and there's no known way to eliminate them. But I have a friend who built horns. Here's a pic, they're 7.5' tall, for reference,