A 5.0 rating seems a little high, if only for the price tag. That should come down in time especially if and when there's comparable competition.
I like the convenience of a smart lock for the frequent times my arms are full of groceries, large boxes, or whatever. feet. Tapping my watch is easier than fumbling with keys or digging out the NFC card.
Can Siri unlock the LL+ via HomeKit? This lock doesn't seem to do proximity unlocking, i.e. unlocking as I approach to within a few feet. That would be my second choice over proximity unlocking. I seem to recall there was a time you couldn't unlock any smart lock via proximity using iOS and HomeKit.
Battery life? Of course there are several variables which will affect battery change intervals, but I'd like to see some qualification of that. 30 sec every 3 months or so is a first world problem but it would still get old. Andrew, can you hear me?
There have been claims that a few locks using 4 AA batteries last almost a year. Without knowing some user stats that seems very optimistic. There are rechargeable 3V CR2 cells and if I could get 6 months between changes then 2 or 3 pair would be fine for me.
I’m not sure that BMHA rating indicates that the bolt strength (in terms of someone attempting to cut through the bolt or otherwise snap it) is up to snuff with a standard solid bolt. It just seems to indicate that it’s strength is ‘grade A’ for engaging the bolt. ie it won’t fall apart or break on its own during normal use. The BMHA rating doesn’t seem to be about stress/abuse testing though I could be wrong. But that’s my impression after looking over their info.
Unfortunately this lock is a huge miss. No thread. Homekey is great but the lack of thread is a no go for me. I’ll stick to my encode plus. Much more for the about the same price.
Many contractors like doing that when it is wrong. The latch should pull the door tightly against the seal. NOT the deadbolt.
This is the #1 problem with smart locks — misaligned hardware, that after latching shut still requires a person to pull the door extra tight in order for the motorized deadbolt to slide into the strike. Not the lock’s fault, of course, but I see it often.
I love the approach and features and don’t feel inserting a battery into the bolt every few months to be too much a chore. My concern is that Consumer Reports gave the previous versions poor marks for security - particularly drilling. All the tech in the world is great but if it fails at its basic function when properly installed with reinforced fittings, then what’s the point?
Eh this is largely academic. Any locksmith will tell you, if somebody wants in, they’ll get in. Typical residential doors & locks are merely attempts to dissuade.
No, no it isn’t. I still see no reason to replace a mechanical lock that always works, with one that is dependant on batteries. The locks I have always work, without fail. But with this, and all electronic locks I have to make sure my phone is charged, and the lock has a fresh battery. One more thing to monitor. I have too GD many battery powered things I have to juggle already. They are supposed to be there to help ME but between two iPhones, two Tablets, Two AWs, and yes remotes for the TV, the Ceiling fans (3) and other things it feels like I’m spending an inordinate amount of time feeding and caring for them. Yes changing or plugging in one might take 30 seconds, but they add up. I’m trying to simplify, not add unnecessary complexity and expense. This coming spring I will be replacing the locks in my patio door. I don’t know what I will be getting but I do know it bloody well won’t require batteries.
You’re ignoring the fact you can still carry your key and use it mechanically all you like. The smart functionality is merely a value-add — auto lock, auto unlock, send keys, revoke keys, home automation scenes, etc. Those features alone are worth it, and I have no intention to not bring my key which is on my car keys anyway.
Yes, but does it work for kids with the first gen cellular Apple Watch SE with family setup (no iPhone)? Or is my son going to be locked out or have to use/lose a keycard since he doesn’t carry a wallet?
Or just carry a key like everyone did before smart locks?
Really, why the urge to create problems that don't exist?
This is a ridiculous comment. Do you still have a wired TV remote because changing the batteries once every 2 years is too cumbersome? How would you expect to power the lock without a battery? Constant AC running through your front door?
Changing the battery is a 30 second exercise. Your phone will notify you when the battery gets low, I have the old version and with normal usage batteries last around 120 days. You’ll get notified in PLENTY of time to change the battery before it dies. Notifications that the battery is low, and then critically low come about 2 weeks later. Sure, the battery is a CR2 - which isnt common to most devices, but theyre readily available wherever you get batteries from.
And if the battery was totally dead, you can still use the traditional key.
What's great about this approach is it is approachable. Some smart locks, like August, have adopted different mechanisms to control the door, making them confusing for those who aren't familiar with them.
This statement makes no sense. The August lock very easily replaces the interior throw of the existing lock, leaving all the other components in place. That said, if I ever need to replace my August lock, I would strongly consider this as its replacement. Love the idea of just tapping with my Watch.
Auto lock/lock functionality based on leaving or arriving home really doesn't work well if you don't live alone.
The battery thing is a bit annoying, I'd rather have a larger battery case on the inside, which would also last longer, don't need this smart lock to be 'invisible.'
There are options on homekit where something only activates "when the last person leaves." I've been testing it out with my lights and it seems to work well. Also, if I leave the house before my significant other, I want the door to lock anyway.
Right, but I also want the door to lock when I leave and they’re still home.
No, no it isn’t. I still see no reason to replace a mechanical lock that always works, with one that is dependant on batteries. The locks I have always work, without fail. But with this, and all electronic locks I have to make sure my phone is charged, and the lock has a fresh battery. One more thing to monitor. I have too GD many battery powered things I have to juggle already. They are supposed to be there to help ME but between two iPhones, two Tablets, Two AWs, and yes remotes for the TV, the Ceiling fans (3) and other things it feels like I’m spending an inordinate amount of time feeding and caring for them. Yes changing or plugging in one might take 30 seconds, but they add up. I’m trying to simplify, not add unnecessary complexity and expense. This coming spring I will be replacing the locks in my patio door. I don’t know what I will be getting but I do know it bloody well won’t require batteries.
You’re ignoring the fact you can still carry your key and use it mechanically all you like. The smart functionality is merely a value-add — auto lock, auto unlock, send keys, revoke keys, home automation scenes, etc. Those features alone are worth it, and I have no intention to not bring my key which is on my car keys anyway.
But that’s the thing, I don’t see it adding value. None of those things you mentioned, auto lock/unlock, send/revoke keys, etc., are things I want to do. If someone is coming into my home, friend, neighbour, worker, I will be there to let them in. When I leave the house I want to KNOW the door is locked, not trust an app. And if I’m going to be carrying my key anyway, then it really does add nothing.
Having to disassemble the lock to replace the AA battery is a non-starter for me. So is having to remember to carry an extra physical key for the inevitable, a dead battery.
Really getting sick of all the assorted batteries in my life that need constant replacing or recharging. I have to have a box full of AAA, AA, C, D, 2032, 2430. 2025, 312, and spare power tool batteries, to avoid having to go to the store in the middle of some activity. And then there's the rat's nest of adapters, chargers and cables.
Unscrewing a cap on the bolt is not "disassembling the lock".
I'm sure it notifies you when the battery is low so that you don't get caught short. However, having a physical key in a known, accessible location will always be a good idea.
Using batteries in the lock is a non-starter for me, at work we have a battery-less smart lock, but it needs its own app to open and this app needs to be open on iOS, not very user friendly. I think I stick with a traditional key (which can also break).
Eh this is largely academic. Any locksmith will tell you, if somebody wants in, they’ll get in. Typical residential doors & locks are merely attempts to dissuade.
Exactly. They're intended to keep out honest people, and people who don't want to be seen breaking through a door or window.
I totally get the convenience of not having to carry keys around, and to be able to unlock the door with your phone or watch, but the types of designs forced upon lock makers by the design of the door itself doesn't actually eliminate the need to carry a key. But paying several times more than than a standard deadbolt, plus the need for batteries, for that convenience just doesn't make economic sense to me.
I’m not sure that BMHA rating indicates that the bolt strength (in terms of someone attempting to cut through the bolt or otherwise snap it) is up to snuff with a standard solid bolt. It just seems to indicate that it’s strength is ‘grade A’ for engaging the bolt. ie it won’t fall apart or break on its own during normal use. The BMHA rating doesn’t seem to be about stress/abuse testing though I could be wrong. But that’s my impression after looking over their info.
If you're not sure, try reading up on BHMA certification instead, because you clearly don't know what its testing entails, and you got it wrong. But I will say that having the highest (AAA) BHMA certification will be wasted by poor installation. The AAA certification is only for the lock (and the deadbolt) and not the door frame and quality of installation. A poor installation renders it to the same weak big box deadbolt.
Before you all get too excited by this lock, I would suggest you look at this you tube video by the lockpickinglawyer. He defeats it in under 5 seconds using standard non destructive picking techniques. Try winning against your insurance company if there is no forced entry! https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=m_MX96MVD00&feature=youtu.be
Before you all get too excited by this lock, I would suggest you look at this you tube video by the lockpickinglawyer. He defeats it in under 5 seconds using standard non destructive picking techniques. Try winning against your insurance company if there is no forced entry! https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=m_MX96MVD00&feature=youtu.be
So, the physical key cylinder functions with the same level of security as every other door lock that has a key cylinder, which is probably in the high-99th percentile of all home door locks.
As for the quip about "winning against your insurance company if there is no forced entry," this is going to be the exact same problem that all those other people with key cylinders (you know, just about everyone) in their door locks have. The difference in this case, of course, is that the owner will have a record of precisely when the door was unlocked and thus can attest that 1) it had not been left unlocked, and 2) it was unlocked at a time when no one authorized to do so was present at the house. That will give you some pretty good answers for your insurance company if they're trying to evade paying for what's covered.
Comments
I like the convenience of a smart lock for the frequent times my arms are full of groceries, large boxes, or whatever. feet. Tapping my watch is easier than fumbling with keys or digging out the NFC card.
Can Siri unlock the LL+ via HomeKit? This lock doesn't seem to do proximity unlocking, i.e. unlocking as I approach to within a few feet. That would be my second choice over proximity unlocking. I seem to recall there was a time you couldn't unlock any smart lock via proximity using iOS and HomeKit.
Battery life? Of course there are several variables which will affect battery change intervals, but I'd like to see some qualification of that. 30 sec every 3 months or so is a first world problem but it would still get old.
Andrew, can you hear me?
There have been claims that a few locks using 4 AA batteries last almost a year. Without knowing some user stats that seems very optimistic. There are rechargeable 3V CR2 cells and if I could get 6 months between changes then 2 or 3 pair would be fine for me.
The BMHA rating doesn’t seem to be about stress/abuse testing though I could be wrong. But that’s my impression after looking over their info.
It's like they suspected something like that could happen
I'm sure it notifies you when the battery is low so that you don't get caught short. However, having a physical key in a known, accessible location will always be a good idea.
As for the quip about "winning against your insurance company if there is no forced entry," this is going to be the exact same problem that all those other people with key cylinders (you know, just about everyone) in their door locks have. The difference in this case, of course, is that the owner will have a record of precisely when the door was unlocked and thus can attest that 1) it had not been left unlocked, and 2) it was unlocked at a time when no one authorized to do so was present at the house. That will give you some pretty good answers for your insurance company if they're trying to evade paying for what's covered.