How to add HomeKit light switches without rewiring your house

AppleInsiderAppleInsider
Posted:
in iPhone

Even if your home wasn't exactly built "smart," it is still possible to add HomeKit light switches without a neutral wire. Here's how.

Leviton is one of many companies that offer smart switch solutions that won't require a neutral wire.
Leviton is one of many companies that offer smart switch solutions that won't require a neutral wire.



There are many ways to install a smart lighting system in your smart home. If your preference is to use smart light switches rather than smart bulbs, you may encounter one big issue if you have an older home -- the lack of a neutral wire.

For those living in a house made before 1985, there's a pretty decent chance that you won't have any neutral wires hiding behind your light switch.

If you're unsure whether or not you have one, a neutral wire will generally be the white wire mixed in the wiring behind your light switch.

These are fundamental to a smart light switch, as a neutral wire continues to deliver a small amount of power even when the switch is flipped to the off position. This small amount of power lets the smart light switch maintain a connection to your home's WiFi network, which is what allows remote control.

Buying the right smart light switch for a house with no neutral wire



If you've pulled off your current light switch from the wall and haven't found a neutral wire, there is a way for you to still install a smart light switch that won't require any new wires.

First and foremost, you'll need a smart light switch that will function without a neutral wire. Second, you'll need a bridge to make it work.

The following brands all sell smart light switches and bridges that will work without a neutral wire. We've had the most experience with Lutron, and have found it to be an excellent solution.



In most cases, the bridge and the light switch will be sold separately. However, some brands, such as Leviton, do offer bridge and switch bundles.

Installation of light switches with no neutral wire



As far as installation goes, the process will remain the same as any other smart light switch with the added step of finding a good spot to plug in your bridge.

You'll also need the app that corresponds to the brand of the switch you've chosen to purchase, as it will be needed to set up the smart aspect of the switch.

As with any electrical installation, be sure to turn the power off to the switch you will be replacing before doing anything else, otherwise you risk electrocution. You can also use a non-contact voltage tester to be sure there is no electrical current flowing as a further precaution.



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Comments

  • Reply 1 of 15
    robin huberrobin huber Posts: 4,031member
    Now, if most of my devices would just keep working after every Apple OS update. HomeKit is such a pain in the ass I’m ready to junk my whole system and go back to mechanical or inline timers (my Xmas lights go on and off flawlessly).
    edited December 2023 williamlondonwatto_cobraappleinsideruserdesignr
  • Reply 2 of 15
    mknelsonmknelson Posts: 1,147member
    robin huber said:
    Now, if most of my devices would just keep working after every Apple OS update. HomeKit is such a pain in the ass I’m ready to junk my old system and go back to mechanical or inline timers (my Xmas lights go on and off flawlessly).
    I used to have problems with my HomeKit setup (mostly Nanoleaf bulbs), but eventually realized it was that there were two hubs - an original AppleTV 4K, and then a HomePod Mini (thread border router). I removed the AppleTV as a hub and haven't had any issues since.


    Also: Any electricians on here? My condo was built in the early 1970s. Black, Green, white wires. The white is ground - is that the same as neutral?
    watto_cobra
  • Reply 3 of 15
    SEonlineSEonline Posts: 6unconfirmed, member
    My Home Kit has also been working very well since they switched to matter. I did have to re-setup a lot of things but since then it's been very solid. Also, I'm not an electrician but my family owns an electrical contracting company and I know that the ground is green (or green with yellow stripe). The neutral is white, and the hot (or live) is the black wire. Be sure to turn off the correct breaker before working on any electrical and it's always a good idea to wear at least one electrical glove (if not two), this way if you do get bit by electricity it doesn't have a path to travel through your chest region. 
    watto_cobra
  • Reply 4 of 15
    bkaupebkaupe Posts: 4member
    Black = Hot
    White = Neutral
    Green = Ground
    Ground and Neutral are connected at your panel, but they are NOT the same.
    watto_cobraroundaboutnow
  • Reply 5 of 15
    rivertriprivertrip Posts: 145member
    mknelson said:
    Now, if most of my devices would just keep working after every Apple OS update. HomeKit is such a pain in the ass I’m ready to junk my old system and go back to mechanical or inline timers (my Xmas lights go on and off flawlessly).
    I used to have problems with my HomeKit setup (mostly Nanoleaf bulbs), but eventually realized it was that there were two hubs - an original AppleTV 4K, and then a HomePod Mini (thread border router). I removed the AppleTV as a hub and haven't had any issues since.


    Also: Any electricians on here? My condo was built in the early 1970s. Black, Green, white wires. The white is ground - is that the same as neutral?
    mknelson said:
    Now, if most of my devices would just keep working after every Apple OS update. HomeKit is such a pain in the ass I’m ready to junk my old system and go back to mechanical or inline timers (my Xmas lights go on and off flawlessly).
    I used to have problems with my HomeKit setup (mostly Nanoleaf bulbs), but eventually realized it was that there were two hubs - an original AppleTV 4K, and then a HomePod Mini (thread border router). I removed the AppleTV as a hub and haven't had any issues since.


    Also: Any electricians on here? My condo was built in the early 1970s. Black, Green, white wires. The white is ground - is that the same as neutral?
    Do not install devices yourself unless you understand the difference between neutral (white) and ground (green), as well as how switches and lights are wired.
    https://www.amazon.com/Wiring-Simplified-Based-National-Electrical/dp/0997905328
    watto_cobra
  • Reply 6 of 15
    eightzeroeightzero Posts: 3,148member
    This highlights the real challenges with "smart home" stuff. For new construction, it might be ok, but retrofit of homes, particularly those of more than say 50 years, is a real issue. Fairly, some of these older homes have other problems that should be addressed separately from this topic (eg knob and tube? aluminum wire? and no ground at all in the outlets? Rotted insulation?) Still, a real issue is there is no actual standard for any "smart" stuff. Who knows if a manufacturer like mentioned in this article will be around for very long? I have seen simple electric switches in operation for 100+ years, and notwithstanding some of the issue i mention, they do still work. Tell me any of this smart stuff will last that long. 

    I have an older house, and it is always an adventure to look inside the walls. Even disturbing wires can have hazards, and might result in a catastrophic failure and fire (wires moved closer then spark) or at best a $20,000 rewire of the whole house. You *really* must want this smart home tech in an old house, and then it really isn't inexpensive. And might need to be complete redone in just a few years when "smart" stuff simply stops working because the vendor no longer exists. 

    YMMV. 
    edited December 2023 watto_cobra
  • Reply 7 of 15
    StrangeDaysStrangeDays Posts: 13,103member
    Eh, my house is 170 years old, and I have dozen of smart devices, including wired wall switches. Granted I'm not running on the old knob & tube any longer, over time the rooms have been refitted with newer electrical, including some rooms I had done in recent years. If you have an old house there will be maintenance required periodically. 

    The smart outlets and switches themselves are rather insignificant to replace when the the time comes, and are the least of my worries.
  • Reply 8 of 15
    citpekscitpeks Posts: 253member
    My home lacks neutral wires in its switch boxes, which has been the main thing holding me back from getting into smart integration.

    The Lutron system does get mostly positive reviews, and the others I either haven't heard of, or may not put much faith in.  Leviton is a recognized brand, but its solution doesn't seem to get great reviews.

    It would have been nice to read about the experiences the author does have with their Lutron devices, other than calling it "an excellent solution."

    Otherwise, a mere list of brands that have products that don't require neutral wires makes for a pretty thin article.

    With regard to the Lutron in particular, does it still function locally if the internet connection is lost?  Or what if Lutron happens to do like some brands have done, and simply shuts down their servers?  Will those switches continue to function as "dumb" devices, or do they become bricks, and live up to the nickname of "Internet of [Feces]?"
    edited December 2023
  • Reply 9 of 15
    retrogustoretrogusto Posts: 1,143member
    Leviton makes a system controllable with a normal-looking on/off switch that just attaches to the wall with screws or double-sided tape, no wiring or hub required. You just have to replace 2 button batteries every five years or so, apparently. But it’s also compatible with HomeKit, Google and Alexa. 
  • Reply 10 of 15
    DJM1740DJM1740 Posts: 6member
    citpeks said:
    My home lacks neutral wires in its switch boxes, which has been the main thing holding me back from getting into smart integration.

    The Lutron system does get mostly positive reviews, and the others I either haven't heard of, or may not put much faith in.  Leviton is a recognized brand, but its solution doesn't seem to get great reviews.

    It would have been nice to read about the experiences the author does have with their Lutron devices, other than calling it "an excellent solution."

    Otherwise, a mere list of brands that have products that don't require neutral wires makes for a pretty thin article.

    With regard to the Lutron in particular, does it still function locally if the internet connection is lost?  Or what if Lutron happens to do like some brands have done, and simply shuts down their servers?  Will those switches continue to function as "dumb" devices, or do they become bricks, and live up to the nickname of "Internet of [Feces]?"
    I have put the Lutron switches in three houses of older vintage with very few problems. The switches that didn't work were Amazon previously-used returns.  Being able to add remotes allowed me to add switches where none existed before. The dimmer switches don't require a neutral; apparently they can operate off the leakage current that trickles through the dimmable load.  The on/off light switches do need the neutral wire. 

    The biggest problem I have had was the physical fit of the switches in older switch boxes. The smart switches are bigger than the simple toggles and sometimes the fit with smaller switch boxes and older wiring is a little tight. 

    They work just fine without an Internet connection; when my wife and I sold the previous two houses I reset all the switches and the bridge, and paired the remote switches back with their counterparts. They all worked just fine as standalone switches. 

    You do need to pay attention somewhat to the list of compatible dimmable LED bulbs; some unlisted bulbs work better than others but that seems to be less of a problem as LED bulbs improve. 
    edited December 2023 citpeks
  • Reply 11 of 15
    BlueLightningBlueLightning Posts: 156member
    My house was built around 1927, but rewired by an engineer who owned many patents around 1950.  After his wife died, he had a small machine shop setup in the dining room.  Most outlets and switches have  a green (ground) wire, a white (neutral) wire and a black (hot) wire.  Circuit breaker panel replaced main fuse box and additional fuse boxes around 1999 (done by an electrical contractor that mostly does commercial work), at the same time a 200 amp utility service line replaced a 100 amp (or lower) line.  This was done to install central air.  Most wiring is currently a relatively modern metal clad variant, with some of the more recent additions (done by licensed electricians) with Romex.  

    Maybe in the future, would consider an update to the ultra-fast circuit breakers that are engineered to protect solid state devices, but otherwise, not interested in any smart devices.  Unlikely to do anything until a major rewire is needed.  Concerned that smart stuff may have low lifespans, and technology may soon change.  May have a new circuit installed from main breakers to detached garage (240v.) for a level 2 EV charger or plug in hybrid (about the same as an electric clothes dryer).  More likely to just stay with a regular hybrid (no plug-in).  

    Homes built a before 1930s, not far from here, occasionally catch fire, and I believe the news videos display what looks like old knob and tube wiring visible thru the flames.  Some very early knob and tube wiring used no insulation over wires (only air spacing), later knob and tube used woven covering.  New York City was one of the first to require metal clad wiring.  Do NOT cover knob and tube wiring with foam or other insulation materials to reduce heat loss in walls and crawl spaces.  Knob and tube wires were intended to be cooled by air.  Be careful of circuits that frequently trip a breaker or blow a fuse - indicates too much load on the circuit or possibly a bad switch, plug or other problem.  Had to replace an old rotating light switch in the detached garage maybe 20 years ago (not a hard short circuit, but leaked enough power to increase power bill by 400 kWH per month).  Especially with older wiring, have an electrician investigate any unexpected increase in monthly power consumption.  They can remove the breaker panel cover, and can measure the amperage draw on each circuit.  You can also buy a small plug in device to determine power usage by large appliances (refrigerator, microwave, coffee maker, washing machine and so on).  TVs are no longer the energy hogs they were when electron tubes ruled, and even in the days of plasma displays.  LEDs can reduce power consumption (up to 85% reduction compared to tungsten filament bulbs).  
    edited December 2023
  • Reply 12 of 15
    jayweissjayweiss Posts: 76member
    I have Lutron Caseta switches and dimmers installed in my condo which was built in the 1970s. I installed one with its hub because one box had no neutral wire. The remainder were Wemo switches, but they were a pain to setup and kept failing. I recently replaced all of the Wemo devices with Lutron Caseta ones. The Caseta pairing process is faster and does not require using home kit codes. 

    A note to the author of this article. The switches listed in this article all do not require a neutral wire, but ONLY the Lutron and Leviton switches are Homekit compatible. 
    edited December 2023
  • Reply 13 of 15
    citpekscitpeks Posts: 253member
    DJM1740 said:
    I have put the Lutron switches in three houses of older vintage with very few problems. The switches that didn't work were Amazon previously-used returns.  Being able to add remotes allowed me to add switches where none existed before. The dimmer switches don't require a neutral; apparently they can operate off the leakage current that trickles through the dimmable load.  The on/off light switches do need the neutral wire. 

    The biggest problem I have had was the physical fit of the switches in older switch boxes. The smart switches are bigger than the simple toggles and sometimes the fit with smaller switch boxes and older wiring is a little tight. 

    They work just fine without an Internet connection; when my wife and I sold the previous two houses I reset all the switches and the bridge, and paired the remote switches back with their counterparts. They all worked just fine as standalone switches. 

    You do need to pay attention somewhat to the list of compatible dimmable LED bulbs; some unlisted bulbs work better than others but that seems to be less of a problem as LED bulbs improve. 

    Good to know.  I've done some further research, and by reputation, Lutron seems to be about as bulletproof as there is in the IoT game, is not a fly-by-night tech company, and the product checks all the boxes.  Also good to know that they'll still function as dumb devices if the net connection is lost.

    Starter kit is on sale right now, so I'm going to give it a try.

    It will be nice to address one problematic location where not having to hunt around in the dark for the keyhole will be very welcome.  The scheduling, geofencing, and Ring integration, if it works, will offer lots of flexibility.

    Non-proprietary is preferable to proprietary solutions, but ultimately, a reliable, working solution is most important.  The whole Thread/Matter situation doesn't seem like it's fully-baked yet, but maybe it will be sorted out in time.  Bluetooth had some rough going at first as well, and is now ubiquitous.

    Too bad Apple has chosen to neglect the market for IoT hardware, which could use some "just works."
  • Reply 14 of 15
    jrg_ukjrg_uk Posts: 66member
    It’s probably worthwhile mentioning the country you’re in when replying…? In my case here in the UK in my 1990s property it was easy to fit a couple of EU-sourced Aqara no-neutral light switches (I already had an Aqara hub, for other devices) for two lights that aren’t regular light fittings. Only involved the same amount of wiring as replacing a regular light switch, as they fit in the commonly used wall box.

    Works great with HomeKit, as well as direct operation via a physical press. I haven’t explicitly tested what happens if my internet goes out, but I expect it to operate ok as long as my local WiFi is up.
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