There's nothing wrong with carbs vs. fuel injectors. Even the adjustments the fuel injector makes are usually only related to a)extreme elevation changes or b) extreme temp changes.
My 1970 RV not only isn't fuel injected, it has a manuel choke. It drives just fine and hauls a 3000 lb boat around to boot.
Yeah my car is carb and there is absolutely nothing wrong with it.. It starts just fine in the cold with out pressing on the gas pedal and it has great pick up. In fact excellent pick up Its an 89 camaro RS with a v8 and a few bolt ons
Ahhh, the "manual choke"! I've only seen one car that ever had one, and I bet there are a lot of people by now who would be completely estranged by one. Things like "pumping the gas pedal" before starting will probably seem pretty strange to modern car drivers too these days, no? ...and the premise of a "distributor cap" in your engine? Things have changed, haven't they?!
I'm stuck in the middle of it all. Whenever I look into the engine bay of a newer car and see the direct ignition harnesses and no solid state distributor module somewhere on the engine, I think it just looks "weird".
OK, I feel better now. Thanks guys. I do have to pump the gas pedal once before starting the car according to the manual, and it does need it. Starts right away afterwards though. It also says to pump it twice in below 32 degree weather. After I first start the car, drive, then get back in the car I dont have to pump the pedal to start it since its warm. I have memories of endless cranking during winter on one of the crappy cars I owned-a 1978 Dodge Charger (looked like a Cordoba). Hopefully since its a Honda that wont be a problem.
I am considering getting the transmission fluid changed, although many mechanics have told me not to on a car with 130,000 miles on it. My new mechanic told me he will look at it first and if it looks like its in good shape I should have no problems changing the fluid.
One question though-after starting the car the idle gets really high and slows down after I pump the gas pedal once. Is this normal? I seem to remember my old car did the same thing............................................. ................
I think that is fairly normal. Technically, the engine will adjust the cold idle over time all by itself (but who would just sit there and wait that long?). So after it has run for a minute or so, and you blip the gas a bit, that simply accelerates (no pun intended) the process of returning to nominal idle. Usually, you are on the road by then anyway, so it's really not a behavior you pick up on. I think you can even observe that behavior in modern, electronically controlled engines, too. If it is seriously sticking in that mode, OTOH, then maybe something in the carb needs adjusting.
OK, I feel better now. Thanks guys. I do have to pump the gas pedal once before starting the car according to the manual, and it does need it.......
That's pretty damning evidence this is a carburetor, not a TBI (throttle-body injection), no? Honestly, I'm asking everyone here in general. I don't really know either way, but this sounds like a definite "carburetor" sort of scenario.
I think that is fairly normal. Technically, the engine will adjust the cold idle over time all by itself (but who would just sit there and wait that long?). So after it has run for a minute or so, and you blip the gas a bit, that simply accelerates (no pun intended) the process of returning to nominal idle. Usually, you are on the road by then anyway, so it's really not a behavior you pick up on. I think you can even observe that behavior in modern, electronically controlled engines, too. If it is seriously sticking in that mode, OTOH, then maybe something in the carb needs adjusting.
Thats what i thought. I seem to remember doing that with some of my older cars. It mainly only does it when i first start it up................................................ .......
Well, I've driven the car for a couple weeks and I have a few observations:
I still hate the seats. I can't seem to get comfortable. It seems like they have too much lumbar support but leave no support at all for the upper back. I have tried putting a cushion on the seat to raise me up and it helps a little but i wish there were something I could put on the upper part of the seat so my upper back would have something to touch.
The auto transmission is erratic. Its not nearly as smooth as an American car. The first 2 gears take too long to engage but when it hits 2nd and 3rd it feels fine. Its a 4 speed automatic and the car is better on the highway then around town because its slow off the line.
The idle seems erratic also. I dont know if this is a carb issue but sometimes when I am stopped at a light the car feels like it wants to get away from me. I have to really clamp down on the brake pedal and its uncomfortable. My mechanic said the idle checked out OK so who knows?
A positive note-the car starts up instantly every time. I am trying to get used to the high idle right after starting the car. I usually kick it down right away but I wonder if I should let it rev a little longer. This is one of the main things I miss about fuel injection-just start it and drive away, smoothly.
My next car will definitely have fuel injection, and most likely wont be a Honda because I dont like to sit low to the ground and unless they improved the seats-forget it!.................
Maybe you can find one of those seat pillows that have tie straps so you can hang it from the headrest mount?
You should probably let the engine idle high for at least a few minutes before trying to kick it down.
Perhaps a fluid/filter change on your auto tranny is in order? I don't know if you said you were trying to avoid that or not earlier in this topic. If no fluid change, you should at least check to see if the fluid is properly topped off. Sometimes that can change the shifting behavior.
Maybe you can find one of those seat pillows that have tie straps so you can hang it from the headrest mount?
You should probably let the engine idle high for at least a few minutes before trying to kick it down.
Perhaps a fluid/filter change on your auto tranny is in order? I don't know if you said you were trying to avoid that or not earlier in this topic. If no fluid change, you should at least check to see if the fluid is properly topped off. Sometimes that can change the shifting behavior.
I'm going to do as you say and let it idle high for a few minutes. Its a little disconcerting but I guess I'll have to get used to it.
I have looked for a seat pillow like you mentioned but havent had any luck finding one. I'll keep searching.
Changing the transmission fluid is the next thing on my schedule. I just had the front brakes changed and the antifreeze changed. I was going to wait until the first week of July after I get back from vacation in San Diego(boy do i need it!) to do that and also get an oil change. Hopefully I can get this car to run smoother and more comfortable, if not i guess I'll be back in the market for another used car. Oh well, live and learn I guess. Its a shame though because the car is in very good condition......................................
I know these pillows exist. Try a Walmart or Bed, Bath, and Beyond, or something. You know how they have those cushions you put on a wooden dining chair. They have tie straps to attach to the chair back rungs so they don't slip off. That's what I'm thinking of.
Just to give you a heads-up, often times it is after you change the fluid in the auto tranny of an older car is when you find all Hell breaks loose. So that is why I wasn't sure if you had said already that you were avoiding that measure. So if there is a problem in the tranny, that's when you'll find out about it. Virtually any "problem" in the tranny is an expensive problem, unfortunately. So the day you go in for that, be prepared to pay for quite a bit more than just the up-front fluid change service (talking about a tranny drop and rebuild, that is).
Oh yeh, now I know those pillows. I will check out a Bed, bath and beyond near me. Theres also a linens n things and maybe Target has them. I'll check it out-thanks.
About the Transmission Fluid, I've heard the same thing about older cars, which is why i never changed it on my 1986 mazda 626 because I didnt know if the owner before me kept it up. I have the current cars receipts dating back 10 yrs and i know he changed the fluid 2 yrs ago. My mechanic said as long as the pan doesnt look like its held on by glue and a string (or something like that) there shouldnt be a problem changing the fluid, especially if the maintenance was done regularly like the previous owner did.
I would be royally screwed if something did happen to the tranny because i sure wouldnt want to pay to get it fixed!.......................
On my way to work the car felt fine, except i noticed that when I parked the car the idle kept going up, then down, then up, then down. I flicked on the accelerator to get it to kick down before shutting the engine off.
After coming home from work the idle was high when I stopped at a light and felt like the car was trying to get away from me. After I parked the car the idle fluctuated again, up and down up and down. Is this normal? The car feels like a schizo. Its more than a tad annoying.........................................
FWIW, even old fuel-injected cars can behave strangely in just the manner you describe (obviously there is a problem, but what it is I haven't been able to figure out). Mine sometimes does it if I switch out of D into N (while standing still, of course), but it doesn't do it if I switch into P. Also, if I switch on the A/C, that seems to level out that behavior, as well.
Maybe your idle setting needs to be adjusted a bit lower or a bit higher (I don't have any idea which way, but maybe just something different could affect it). ...or maybe your throttle plate isn't closing properly due to obstruction or debris?
Could be old, vacuum lines that are leaky, too.
Best thing to do for an intermittent, unpredictable problem like that is to time it so you can drop by your mechanic shop when it is doing it. That way he can see it firsthand. Otherwise, just coming by the shop and explaining the problem may not be enough if he can never reproduce the problem while the car is there. Problems like that always have a way of "disappearing" when you have somebody actually looking for it.
Isnt that always the case where you bring the car in and it acts fine? I will leave the car overnight with the mechanic if i have to so he can see what its doing. I certainly dont want to put alot of money into the car but if its something relatively simple and makes the car run smoother it will be worth it, even if i finally decide to give up on it and go get a fuel injected car. It can only enhance its resale value if its running good........................................
Comments
My 1970 RV not only isn't fuel injected, it has a manuel choke. It drives just fine and hauls a 3000 lb boat around to boot.
Nick
I'm stuck in the middle of it all. Whenever I look into the engine bay of a newer car and see the direct ignition harnesses and no solid state distributor module somewhere on the engine, I think it just looks "weird".
I am considering getting the transmission fluid changed, although many mechanics have told me not to on a car with 130,000 miles on it. My new mechanic told me he will look at it first and if it looks like its in good shape I should have no problems changing the fluid.
One question though-after starting the car the idle gets really high and slows down after I pump the gas pedal once. Is this normal? I seem to remember my old car did the same thing............................................. ................
Originally posted by steve666
OK, I feel better now. Thanks guys. I do have to pump the gas pedal once before starting the car according to the manual, and it does need it.......
That's pretty damning evidence this is a carburetor, not a TBI (throttle-body injection), no? Honestly, I'm asking everyone here in general. I don't really know either way, but this sounds like a definite "carburetor" sort of scenario.
Originally posted by Randycat99
I think that is fairly normal. Technically, the engine will adjust the cold idle over time all by itself (but who would just sit there and wait that long?). So after it has run for a minute or so, and you blip the gas a bit, that simply accelerates (no pun intended) the process of returning to nominal idle. Usually, you are on the road by then anyway, so it's really not a behavior you pick up on. I think you can even observe that behavior in modern, electronically controlled engines, too. If it is seriously sticking in that mode, OTOH, then maybe something in the carb needs adjusting.
Thats what i thought. I seem to remember doing that with some of my older cars. It mainly only does it when i first start it up................................................ .......
I still hate the seats. I can't seem to get comfortable. It seems like they have too much lumbar support but leave no support at all for the upper back. I have tried putting a cushion on the seat to raise me up and it helps a little but i wish there were something I could put on the upper part of the seat so my upper back would have something to touch.
The auto transmission is erratic. Its not nearly as smooth as an American car. The first 2 gears take too long to engage but when it hits 2nd and 3rd it feels fine. Its a 4 speed automatic and the car is better on the highway then around town because its slow off the line.
The idle seems erratic also. I dont know if this is a carb issue but sometimes when I am stopped at a light the car feels like it wants to get away from me. I have to really clamp down on the brake pedal and its uncomfortable. My mechanic said the idle checked out OK so who knows?
A positive note-the car starts up instantly every time. I am trying to get used to the high idle right after starting the car. I usually kick it down right away but I wonder if I should let it rev a little longer. This is one of the main things I miss about fuel injection-just start it and drive away, smoothly.
My next car will definitely have fuel injection, and most likely wont be a Honda because I dont like to sit low to the ground and unless they improved the seats-forget it!.................
You should probably let the engine idle high for at least a few minutes before trying to kick it down.
Perhaps a fluid/filter change on your auto tranny is in order? I don't know if you said you were trying to avoid that or not earlier in this topic. If no fluid change, you should at least check to see if the fluid is properly topped off. Sometimes that can change the shifting behavior.
Originally posted by Randycat99
Maybe you can find one of those seat pillows that have tie straps so you can hang it from the headrest mount?
You should probably let the engine idle high for at least a few minutes before trying to kick it down.
Perhaps a fluid/filter change on your auto tranny is in order? I don't know if you said you were trying to avoid that or not earlier in this topic. If no fluid change, you should at least check to see if the fluid is properly topped off. Sometimes that can change the shifting behavior.
I'm going to do as you say and let it idle high for a few minutes. Its a little disconcerting but I guess I'll have to get used to it.
I have looked for a seat pillow like you mentioned but havent had any luck finding one. I'll keep searching.
Changing the transmission fluid is the next thing on my schedule. I just had the front brakes changed and the antifreeze changed. I was going to wait until the first week of July after I get back from vacation in San Diego(boy do i need it!) to do that and also get an oil change. Hopefully I can get this car to run smoother and more comfortable, if not i guess I'll be back in the market for another used car. Oh well, live and learn I guess. Its a shame though because the car is in very good condition......................................
Just to give you a heads-up, often times it is after you change the fluid in the auto tranny of an older car is when you find all Hell breaks loose. So that is why I wasn't sure if you had said already that you were avoiding that measure. So if there is a problem in the tranny, that's when you'll find out about it. Virtually any "problem" in the tranny is an expensive problem, unfortunately. So the day you go in for that, be prepared to pay for quite a bit more than just the up-front fluid change service (talking about a tranny drop and rebuild, that is).
About the Transmission Fluid, I've heard the same thing about older cars, which is why i never changed it on my 1986 mazda 626 because I didnt know if the owner before me kept it up. I have the current cars receipts dating back 10 yrs and i know he changed the fluid 2 yrs ago. My mechanic said as long as the pan doesnt look like its held on by glue and a string (or something like that) there shouldnt be a problem changing the fluid, especially if the maintenance was done regularly like the previous owner did.
I would be royally screwed if something did happen to the tranny because i sure wouldnt want to pay to get it fixed!.......................
On my way to work the car felt fine, except i noticed that when I parked the car the idle kept going up, then down, then up, then down. I flicked on the accelerator to get it to kick down before shutting the engine off.
After coming home from work the idle was high when I stopped at a light and felt like the car was trying to get away from me. After I parked the car the idle fluctuated again, up and down up and down. Is this normal? The car feels like a schizo. Its more than a tad annoying.........................................
Maybe your idle setting needs to be adjusted a bit lower or a bit higher (I don't have any idea which way, but maybe just something different could affect it). ...or maybe your throttle plate isn't closing properly due to obstruction or debris?
Could be old, vacuum lines that are leaky, too.
Best thing to do for an intermittent, unpredictable problem like that is to time it so you can drop by your mechanic shop when it is doing it. That way he can see it firsthand. Otherwise, just coming by the shop and explaining the problem may not be enough if he can never reproduce the problem while the car is there. Problems like that always have a way of "disappearing" when you have somebody actually looking for it.