Yes, I do. I have Pace desoldering equipment and hot air surface mount rework equipment, as well as a Weller computer controlled soldering station.
But, for anything other than something like that, a small soldering iron will do.
Actually, if you have a steady hand and a lit magnifier stand, you can do it even withoput the equipment. But, you have to be good at it and not add too much new solder.
Hi again, ;-). Lets talk about soldering.., ;-).
Surely, not all the pins of the GPU penetrate right though the logic board ? Difficult.!
_ alliance _. We are talking about iBooks out of warranty not MacBooks under warranty!
Surely, not all the pins of the GPU penetrate right though the logic board ? Difficult.!
I can't answer to every method of packaging, but yes, they normally do. With the proper equipment, you can desolder the entire chip, or socket, from the 8 layer board, and resolder, if required.
I have the same picture, different table, same machine. I was able to easily get into target disk mode so all data was saved. I am willing to have ago at soldering, what have I got to lose ;-)
I have the same picture, different table, same machine. I was able to easily get into target disk mode so all data was saved. I am willing to have ago at soldering, what have I got to lose ;-)
Be very careful. Several things to watch out for, if you really are going to do this.
Use a small iron (NEVER a gun), 15 to 20 watts is plenty, preferably one with a grounded plug. Make sure it has a conical point, not a chisel point. These connections are very small and almost touch.
Don't linger on the joint more than three or four seconds, that is all they are rated for, or you might damage the chip. You might also burn the thin trace.
Don't use too much solder or you will bridge two or more traces!!! Get the finest gauge solder you can find that is rated for electronics use. Radio Shack often has a fine solder. DON'T use solder with silver, as the temp needed is higher.
Another way to try this is to use a very small dab of electronics flux on the connection rather than more solder. I've often found that it is better.
For connections that are stressed, which for some reason this one seems to be, I've scraped (gently) the varnish off the trace if it doesn't disappear somewhere first, and soldered up that trace. That tends to prevent the connection from breaking at the joint.
I've had this problem since late 2005. I bought my iBook in late 2004 and didn't think I needed Apple Care. After updating to 10.4.6 (I think) my machine no longer would start up... so I went to Apple SoHo and they wanted to charge I don't remember how much (too much) to repair it. Since the computer would work fine when I applied lots of pressure to the lower left hand corner I figured it'd be okay for a while. Eventually I went to Tekserve in Manhattan for another price quote and they wanted $800 to repair the logic board. Instead I went across the street to Home Depot and bought a clamp for $7 which worked for a while however the laptop wasn't very portable. After a couple months I tightened the clamp too much and destroyed my hard drive losing practically everything. So I've been working on my iBook like this for the past few months waiting for update to the MacBook and MacBook Pro lines (using my iMac 400 DVSE as a startup disk in firewire target disk mode.)
This is plain and simple fraud! I do hope that the EU spanks Apple severly and makes them an example. Additionally, I hope that a class action suit will be filed in the USA to encourage Apple to come clean, The taint of the option scandal is souring the integrity of the Board and now new scandal. Absurd and definitely not in the interest of the stockholders.
I've had this problem since late 2005. I bought my iBook in late 2004 and didn't think I needed Apple Care. After updating to 10.4.6 (I think) my machine no longer would start up... so I went to Apple SoHo and they wanted to charge I don't remember how much (too much) to repair it. Since the computer would work fine when I applied lots of pressure to the lower left hand corner I figured it'd be okay for a while. Eventually I went to Tekserve in Manhattan for another price quote and they wanted $800 to repair the logic board. Instead I went across the street to Home Depot and bought a clamp for $7 which worked for a while however the laptop wasn't very portable. After a couple months I tightened the clamp too much and destroyed my hard drive losing practically everything. So I've been working on my iBook like this for the past few months waiting for update to the MacBook and MacBook Pro lines (using my iMac 400 DVSE as a startup disk in firewire target disk mode.)
It's not pretty.
WRG, you so deserve the new Santa Rosas after all you have been through! Enjoy every minute of your upcoming new MB or MBP experience!
This has happened to me this past February. I didn't know about this problem being a fault at the time and just thought it was my bad luck. I was working away from home at the time and went to Manchester twice that day to try to sort it out, I ended up buying a new MacBook Pro as I figured it was better in the long run than paying over £400 for a new logicboard (they told me they don't repair them they replace them) plus I get a discount on purchases due to me being a student with the OU.
After I saw this story I thought I'd see if they'd repair it not that there was evidence this was a manufacturing fault, I contacted applecare who told me they'd heard of this story and sympathised with me but they officially couldn't do anything but they even told me to basically go for it and push Apple into the repair as it does look like it's a manufacturing fault. I contacted Consumer Direct here in the UK which is a government run consumer affairs department they advised me to go to the store I bought it from (the Regent Street store) and ask them to either repair, replace or refund me my money with depreciation taken into consideration for time that I have had it and they told me not to worry about the warranty being expired but that I could claim that it was 'no longer fit for purpose' under the Sale of Goods Act 1979 (you have 6 years from the date of purchase to make this claim). I went to the Regent Street store and politely told them my story and what I'd been advised by the governments consumer affairs department and was taken upstairs where I was very quickly told that they are not allowed to comment on my situation as it is considered a legal matter and it needs to be addressed to Apples head office. I have since contacted the BBC's watchdog program to see if they'll push Apple into action as I think something does need to be done here. I am also now writing to the store to inform them that I intend to pursue this matter further and wish them to please sort this out (it has to be the store as that is who you have the sale contract with even if Apple own the store you still need to deal with the store to start with and then after you've gotten no satisfaction there you can take it further up to Apples head office).
Please don't missunderstand me I like Apple and their products but when it's becoming so obvious that this is a manufacturing fault then Apple does have a duty and responsibility to their customers to sort this problem out and not to drag it out in the hope that we'll buy something new or pay to replace the logicboard.
Sorry for the message being so long but just wanted to inform others in the UK that they have this right to claim if this happened to you. Will keep you informed of any developments my end.
Apple has a very, very long history of manufacturing bad motherboards, even back in the days when Kodak made their boards for them. I'm not sure if it's simply bad luck, or ridiculously bad quality management.
I think a lot of it is due to cutting corners - for example in the iBooks the video cable going through the hinge, was never really designed to hold up over much wear and tear, and the lower case on most was never made to stand the strain put on it, the motherboards were attached far too tightly allowing for flexing and lots of damage (which,did happen).
When I took my PBG4 apart, I was impressed with the way they put the machine together, except for the wiring, especially by the hinge - it just comes out of the swivel with no guidance at all. Lame.
Then again, I think Apple's laptops are victims of overconfident owners, not unlike myself. They appear to be rather tough, and are built extremely well in a way. Most PC users I see tend to keep their laptops delicately placed away in a nicely padded case, I have a padded case yes but I tend to have my PB sitting around on my table (or on my lap, depending on whether I'm using it or not), and I don't exercise TOO MUCH special care for it.
It's been extremely durable in that sense, it once had a nasty little drop and the only damage was a dent that I managed to pound out of it. LOL.
Then again, the case doesn't come apart easily o_O
This type of problem is not that uncommon. I've seen it in a lot of products. I fixed a friends machine by resoldering the part. First I scraped away more of the varnish on the trace. Then I soldered the connection further up the trace as far as I could go on the board.
The problen hasn't reoccured.
I even had this happen to one of my own designs.
Can you tell me exactly where to solder the bad connection? Don't know if it's been too long. Thank you.
It's not hard to find a place that can do surface-mount soldering. A good electronics repair shop, a community college that does electronics repair classes... The cost probably varies, but for not a lot of money, she's better than new.
Comments
Yes, I do. I have Pace desoldering equipment and hot air surface mount rework equipment, as well as a Weller computer controlled soldering station.
But, for anything other than something like that, a small soldering iron will do.
Actually, if you have a steady hand and a lit magnifier stand, you can do it even withoput the equipment. But, you have to be good at it and not add too much new solder.
Hi again, ;-). Lets talk about soldering.., ;-).
Surely, not all the pins of the GPU penetrate right though the logic board ? Difficult.!
_ alliance _. We are talking about iBooks out of warranty not MacBooks under warranty!
Hi again, ;-). Lets talk about soldering.., ;-).
What do you want to know?
Surely, not all the pins of the GPU penetrate right though the logic board ? Difficult.!
I can't answer to every method of packaging, but yes, they normally do. With the proper equipment, you can desolder the entire chip, or socket, from the 8 layer board, and resolder, if required.
I have the same picture, different table, same machine. I was able to easily get into target disk mode so all data was saved. I am willing to have ago at soldering, what have I got to lose ;-)
Be very careful. Several things to watch out for, if you really are going to do this.
Use a small iron (NEVER a gun), 15 to 20 watts is plenty, preferably one with a grounded plug. Make sure it has a conical point, not a chisel point. These connections are very small and almost touch.
Don't linger on the joint more than three or four seconds, that is all they are rated for, or you might damage the chip. You might also burn the thin trace.
Don't use too much solder or you will bridge two or more traces!!! Get the finest gauge solder you can find that is rated for electronics use. Radio Shack often has a fine solder. DON'T use solder with silver, as the temp needed is higher.
Another way to try this is to use a very small dab of electronics flux on the connection rather than more solder. I've often found that it is better.
For connections that are stressed, which for some reason this one seems to be, I've scraped (gently) the varnish off the trace if it doesn't disappear somewhere first, and soldered up that trace. That tends to prevent the connection from breaking at the joint.
It's not pretty.
Hi again, ;-). Lets talk about soldering.., ;-).
Surely, not all the pins of the GPU penetrate right though the logic board ? Difficult.!
_ alliance _. We are talking about iBooks out of warranty not MacBooks under warranty!
yep, an iBook.
The sounds like a manufacturing defect and Apple should take responsibility for the quality of their products.
One thing I learned from these failures is to always buy AppleCare. The iBooks that don't have it eventually end up as paperweights.
I've had this problem since late 2005. I bought my iBook in late 2004 and didn't think I needed Apple Care. After updating to 10.4.6 (I think) my machine no longer would start up... so I went to Apple SoHo and they wanted to charge I don't remember how much (too much) to repair it. Since the computer would work fine when I applied lots of pressure to the lower left hand corner I figured it'd be okay for a while. Eventually I went to Tekserve in Manhattan for another price quote and they wanted $800 to repair the logic board. Instead I went across the street to Home Depot and bought a clamp for $7 which worked for a while however the laptop wasn't very portable. After a couple months I tightened the clamp too much and destroyed my hard drive losing practically everything. So I've been working on my iBook like this for the past few months waiting for update to the MacBook and MacBook Pro lines (using my iMac 400 DVSE as a startup disk in firewire target disk mode.)
It's not pretty.
WRG, you so deserve the new Santa Rosas after all you have been through! Enjoy every minute of your upcoming new MB or MBP experience!
The only reason that I ask is because I have a dead PB under my desk that I'd love to bring back to life again!
Does anybody know if this affects the G4 12" Powerbook too, or is it just iBooks?
The only reason that I ask is because I have a dead PB under my desk that I'd love to bring back to life again!
From the look of the things, it seems to be an iBook affair. And I don't remember anything about generalized 12' Powerbook failures. Sorry.
From the look of the things, it seems to be an iBook affair. And I don't remember anything about generalized 12' Powerbook failures. Sorry.
Thanks - well it was worth checking
After I saw this story I thought I'd see if they'd repair it not that there was evidence this was a manufacturing fault, I contacted applecare who told me they'd heard of this story and sympathised with me but they officially couldn't do anything but they even told me to basically go for it and push Apple into the repair as it does look like it's a manufacturing fault. I contacted Consumer Direct here in the UK which is a government run consumer affairs department they advised me to go to the store I bought it from (the Regent Street store) and ask them to either repair, replace or refund me my money with depreciation taken into consideration for time that I have had it and they told me not to worry about the warranty being expired but that I could claim that it was 'no longer fit for purpose' under the Sale of Goods Act 1979 (you have 6 years from the date of purchase to make this claim). I went to the Regent Street store and politely told them my story and what I'd been advised by the governments consumer affairs department and was taken upstairs where I was very quickly told that they are not allowed to comment on my situation as it is considered a legal matter and it needs to be addressed to Apples head office. I have since contacted the BBC's watchdog program to see if they'll push Apple into action as I think something does need to be done here. I am also now writing to the store to inform them that I intend to pursue this matter further and wish them to please sort this out (it has to be the store as that is who you have the sale contract with even if Apple own the store you still need to deal with the store to start with and then after you've gotten no satisfaction there you can take it further up to Apples head office).
Please don't missunderstand me I like Apple and their products but when it's becoming so obvious that this is a manufacturing fault then Apple does have a duty and responsibility to their customers to sort this problem out and not to drag it out in the hope that we'll buy something new or pay to replace the logicboard.
Sorry for the message being so long but just wanted to inform others in the UK that they have this right to claim if this happened to you. Will keep you informed of any developments my end.
I think a lot of it is due to cutting corners - for example in the iBooks the video cable going through the hinge, was never really designed to hold up over much wear and tear, and the lower case on most was never made to stand the strain put on it, the motherboards were attached far too tightly allowing for flexing and lots of damage (which,did happen).
When I took my PBG4 apart, I was impressed with the way they put the machine together, except for the wiring, especially by the hinge - it just comes out of the swivel with no guidance at all. Lame.
Then again, I think Apple's laptops are victims of overconfident owners, not unlike myself. They appear to be rather tough, and are built extremely well in a way. Most PC users I see tend to keep their laptops delicately placed away in a nicely padded case, I have a padded case yes but I tend to have my PB sitting around on my table (or on my lap, depending on whether I'm using it or not), and I don't exercise TOO MUCH special care for it.
It's been extremely durable in that sense, it once had a nasty little drop and the only damage was a dent that I managed to pound out of it. LOL.
Then again, the case doesn't come apart easily o_O
This type of problem is not that uncommon. I've seen it in a lot of products. I fixed a friends machine by resoldering the part. First I scraped away more of the varnish on the trace. Then I soldered the connection further up the trace as far as I could go on the board.
The problen hasn't reoccured.
I even had this happen to one of my own designs.
Can you tell me exactly where to solder the bad connection? Don't know if it's been too long. Thank you.
Can you tell me exactly where to solder the bad connection? Don't know if it's been too long. Thank you.
Are you referring to the one that breaks because of the keyboard push?
If so, you have to find that particular joint. I can't say now where it is, as it's been too long.
But, if you try, beware of the precautions I've mentioned here several times. This can destroy your machine if not done properly!