First I've heard of this. Since I have more devices in the system than can be controlled by the Apple remote, I use the Harmony to turn AppleTV on and off.
Right after turning everything off, I always see the wee power indicator light come back on the AppleTV box - and I use the Apple remote > press Home for 5 seconds > press touchpad once = sleep and it shuts off...and that's the way everything stays till I start again w/Harmony. It's never sponeously turned on the Vizio TV though that's included in setup along with Yamaha sound system.
I have the same situation and solution. However do we know of people who use CEC that do not have this problem. I would think if it was the ATV that was turning TV's on it would turn them all on. If not then maybe is has to do with the implementation of CEC in certain TV's.
The best solution is to disable the horribly unreliable, unpredictable HDMI-CEC on all your devices and get a remote with macro capability to control multiple devices. The ATV4 thankfully still supports IR for everything but the new Home button, and the stupid supplied remote is too small, thin, and twitchy with its touchpad to be the primary controller anyway.
I don't have an Apple TV, but HDMI-CEC between my Blu-ray player, receiver and TV, all of different brands, works quite well. I would say it's those complex programmable remotes that are unreliable and unpredictable. The proof of that are the sites with thousands of postings from people who can't get the remotes to do what they want. Having said that, if I also wanted the remote to open/close the curtains and dim the lights, that would be the only option.
Turn on the TV and the receiver turns on and switches to TV. Change the input on the receiver and it changes to match on the TV. Change the input via the TV and it changes the receiver input. If it's late at night and I don't want sound from the receiver, after the receiver turns on, I switch it off and it properly does not shut off the TV, but the TV returns to its own sound. Unfortunately, my cable box doesn't support HDMI-CEC so that still needs to be turned on and off separately, but the cable box remote can also turn on the TV and that, in turn, will turn on the receiver, so all is good.
The only time it doesn't work perfectly is if I manually shut off the receiver at the receiver itself and it wasn't on the TV input. In that case, the next time I turn on the TV, it will still turn on the receiver, but it won't necessarily auto change it to the correct input unless I cycle the input selection on the TV. Also, if the TV is off and I manually turn the receiver on at the receiver and then turn on the TV, it will toggle the receiver and shut it off. I suspect this is because HDMI-CEC toggles power and doesn't really "know" the current state.
A few times, my Apple TV, TV, and receiver would power back on less than a minute after I turned everything off using the Siri remote. I discovered that if I returned to the home screen before putting it to sleep, everything stayed off as expected.
Another first world problem to deal with. How will we ever cope?
Here's the problem with your observation --
Apple is a first world company, selling first world products, for first world profits. It's not about putting up with a minor inconvenience while dealing with second or third world problems, its about living up to a first world standard. If you're going to sell a first world product, then it had better pass first world muster. There's no excuse otherwise.
This defense my parents used about how hard it was when they were kids, and we should just be grateful with what we have today doesn't really cut it, and frankly never did.
I really get tired of reading this statement, almost as much as I get tired of reading "but but but ...", and "Steve Jobs would have never ...".
Mine doesn't turn itself on, but it frequently "barfs" in the middle of watching a show, and then none of the "apps" that require a network connection work any longer, even though the network is connected. A restart does not fix it. I have to pull the power cord, wait a few seconds, then plug it back in. Not too happy with this new ATV so far.
That seems like a router issue, happens to my computer also, not made by Apple. Try rebooting the router, or clearing it's connection table, If it fixes this, it may not be the Apple TV that's the issue.
I have a Samsung LED tv and the apple tv wreaked havoc on the set. It was blowing up the HDMI connection requiring unplugging the tv every time to get it back. My only solution was to unhook the HDMI and manually plug in when I want to run the apple tv
Yep I can confirm this has happened to me a few times. Definitely annoying.
I found that pressing 'Menu' (from home screen) until it shows the screensaver then pressing 'Menu' again to go back to home screen. Holding 'Home' button to then sleep device seems to work (for me anyway). Very annoying though I do agree.
The best solution is to disable the horribly unreliable, unpredictable HDMI-CEC on all your devices and get a remote with macro capability to control multiple devices. The ATV4 thankfully still supports IR for everything but the new Home button, and the stupid supplied remote is too small, thin, and twitchy with its touchpad to be the primary controller anyway.
I don't have an Apple TV, but HDMI-CEC between my Blu-ray player, receiver and TV, all of different brands, works quite well. I would say it's those complex programmable remotes that are unreliable and unpredictable. The proof of that are the sites with thousands of postings from people who can't get the remotes to do what they want. Having said that, if I also wanted the remote to open/close the curtains and dim the lights, that would be the only option.
Turn on the TV and the receiver turns on and switches to TV. Change the input on the receiver and it changes to match on the TV. Change the input via the TV and it changes the receiver input. If it's late at night and I don't want sound from the receiver, after the receiver turns on, I switch it off and it properly does not shut off the TV, but the TV returns to its own sound. Unfortunately, my cable box doesn't support HDMI-CEC so that still needs to be turned on and off separately, but the cable box remote can also turn on the TV and that, in turn, will turn on the receiver, so all is good.
The only time it doesn't work perfectly is if I manually shut off the receiver at the receiver itself and it wasn't on the TV input. In that case, the next time I turn on the TV, it will still turn on the receiver, but it won't necessarily auto change it to the correct input unless I cycle the input selection on the TV. Also, if the TV is off and I manually turn the receiver on at the receiver and then turn on the TV, it will toggle the receiver and shut it off. I suspect this is because HDMI-CEC toggles power and doesn't really "know" the current state.
You just described the sorts of problems I don't have using my Sony RM-VL610 IR remote instead of HDMI-CEC, which is disabled on all my devices because it's unreliable, unpredictable, has weird order dependencies, etc. Plus, I don't want the TV to have any effect on AVR power state or vice versa. Go to sites like avsforum.com, and you will find it often recommended to disable HDMI-CEC, as it's often more trouble than it's worth.
I use the ATV4 remote only for Siri, to sleep the ATV4 (no other way since the Home button isn't IR, and Apple doesn't deign to publish IR or IP protocols), and to scrub in Netflix with the trackpad. That remote is downright horrible for any directional pad usage like navigating the UI.
There is a lot you can do when you're in control of the behavior. My remote macros use discrete codes for power on/off instead of toggle
codes so they don't have to remember state, to do direct input selection
on TV and AVR, etc, and they do everything HDMI-CEC does and more,
except they do what I want, reliably. HDMI-CEC is extremely limited, in
fact, compared to what I do with my Sony remote. I get a lot of discrete
codes into it that don't appear on device remotes by using a JP1 remote
as intermediary teacher, and I also get IP control of some devices
using my PC, Microsoft IR receiver, and Autohotkey, helped by some
simple programs I've written to do things like bump my AVR volume up or
down in 10 dB steps, which has all but replaced my use of the volume
rocker. The remote has better ergonomics and layout than any Harmony I've seen, and I'm not reliant on Logitech to add codes they "forgot" when they added support for a given device.
This HDMI-CEC on Your TV with respect to Apple-TV ON/OFF is funky thing. I have LG TV and the 4th gen Apple-TV. When I turn ON/OFF TV, it also does similar to Apple-TV because of HDMI-CEC. If I turn ON Apple-TV, it turns on TV which is fine. But to make it simple, I just turned-off(disable) HDMI-CEC on my TV and life is better. Now, my TV is independent of Apple-TV ON/OFF combination.. When I want to stream on Apple-TV than I turn on TV and select specific HDMI input which Apple-TV is connected to and than just turn-on Apple-TV using it's own remote and start streaming.
My only "glitch' with my new ATV is just the opposite. I have an older 2007 46" Sony Bravio LCD and was quite surprised to find out that my ATV was able to power it on/off. That function stopped working after a few days. Not a big deal as I'm used to powering it manually anyways. I just found that odd.
I agree that the new remote, while very cool... has a touchpad that is way, way too sensitive. At times, just the process of putting down my remote on the table results in the movie I'm watching to pause, fast-forward, etc.. simply because my hand rubbed the edge of the touchpad while setting it down.
I still think it's the best ATV yet. I'm looking forward to Apple releasing the next OS update for it to hopefully address the issues being brought up.
Does Apple tell you to do that anywhere or do they just expect people to know? I don't even know what CEC is. Most people aren't tech junkies.
In many case, CEC is often not turned on by default, so they'd have to "tech junkies" (sic) to actually turn it on.
As for tech junky... Come on, it's in the TV menu and often the very very thin TV user guide talks about it. Got a cheap secondary $200 Toshiba TV for my kitchen and the user guide talks about it.
There is a difference between obliviniousness and being a tech wiz; being over the top melodramatic doesn't help at all.
CEC could also have an impact on volume played on the TV if the Apple TV remote is not sending commands straight to the TV (I'd expect it does since it has to work with non CEC TV's too).
I have a Samsung LED tv and the apple tv wreaked havoc on the set. It was blowing up the HDMI connection requiring unplugging the tv every time to get it back. My only solution was to unhook the HDMI and manually plug in when I want to run the apple tv
What on earth does "blowing up" the hdmi connection even mean? Probably a CEC issue too; try that instead.
Comments
Turn on the TV and the receiver turns on and switches to TV. Change the input on the receiver and it changes to match on the TV. Change the input via the TV and it changes the receiver input. If it's late at night and I don't want sound from the receiver, after the receiver turns on, I switch it off and it properly does not shut off the TV, but the TV returns to its own sound. Unfortunately, my cable box doesn't support HDMI-CEC so that still needs to be turned on and off separately, but the cable box remote can also turn on the TV and that, in turn, will turn on the receiver, so all is good.
The only time it doesn't work perfectly is if I manually shut off the receiver at the receiver itself and it wasn't on the TV input. In that case, the next time I turn on the TV, it will still turn on the receiver, but it won't necessarily auto change it to the correct input unless I cycle the input selection on the TV. Also, if the TV is off and I manually turn the receiver on at the receiver and then turn on the TV, it will toggle the receiver and shut it off. I suspect this is because HDMI-CEC toggles power and doesn't really "know" the current state.
Apple is a first world company, selling first world products, for first world profits. It's not about putting up with a minor inconvenience while dealing with second or third world problems, its about living up to a first world standard. If you're going to sell a first world product, then it had better pass first world muster. There's no excuse otherwise.
This defense my parents used about how hard it was when they were kids, and we should just be grateful with what we have today doesn't really cut it, and frankly never did.
I really get tired of reading this statement, almost as much as I get tired of reading "but but but ...", and "Steve Jobs would have never ...".
Try rebooting the router, or clearing it's connection table, If it fixes this, it may not be the Apple TV that's the issue.
I use the ATV4 remote only for Siri, to sleep the ATV4 (no other way since the Home button isn't IR, and Apple doesn't deign to publish IR or IP protocols), and to scrub in Netflix with the trackpad. That remote is downright horrible for any directional pad usage like navigating the UI.
There is a lot you can do when you're in control of the behavior. My remote macros use discrete codes for power on/off instead of toggle codes so they don't have to remember state, to do direct input selection on TV and AVR, etc, and they do everything HDMI-CEC does and more, except they do what I want, reliably. HDMI-CEC is extremely limited, in fact, compared to what I do with my Sony remote. I get a lot of discrete codes into it that don't appear on device remotes by using a JP1 remote as intermediary teacher, and I also get IP control of some devices using my PC, Microsoft IR receiver, and Autohotkey, helped by some simple programs I've written to do things like bump my AVR volume up or down in 10 dB steps, which has all but replaced my use of the volume rocker. The remote has better ergonomics and layout than any Harmony I've seen, and I'm not reliant on Logitech to add codes they "forgot" when they added support for a given device.
As for tech junky... Come on, it's in the TV menu and often the very very thin TV user guide talks about it.
Got a cheap secondary $200 Toshiba TV for my kitchen and the user guide talks about it.
There is a difference between obliviniousness and being a tech wiz; being over the top melodramatic doesn't help at all.
CEC could also have an impact on volume played on the TV if the Apple TV remote is not sending commands
straight to the TV (I'd expect it does since it has to work with non CEC TV's too).
What on earth does "blowing up" the hdmi connection even mean?
Probably a CEC issue too; try that instead.