chris b

Ditto on being a longtime owner of wired Grado cans, a pair of older SR80 cans and year-old 325e cans, love the sound coming out of both of them. I purchased a pair of these wireless cans. They sound pretty decent, burned them in via the wired connection to my 5.5 Gen iPod. My two disappointments: they do sound a bit muffled via BT, and did take part of my leap to buy after I'd read a claim on The Verge that they also use the AAC codec - these cans don't have AAC, only SBC and APT-X (I forced AAC on my Mac and only connected via SBC and it really sounded muddy, just like when connected to my iPhone via BT). The upside that seems to be missed by all of these reviews? These are the first Grados that I'm aware of that have a swappable cord! BTW, the GW100 actually sounds great with the corded connection, much better than via BT. I'll be looking at one of the Moon Audio Dragon hacks for my SR325e cans, love the sound but not so fond of the cord...

First time poster here, long time reader. Owner of exactly that same combination, hadn't gotten around to installing the adapter just yet. Posting here for two reasons - First, Snazzy Labs made a false claim, and you guys are regurgitating it and, second, the screws failed for not the reason he claimed.

First, the screws are made of steel. I used a magnetic bit holder for my drill/driver and did not even have to touch the fasteners, the bit holder picked the screws with a small air gap. Second, the screws were difficult to remove because they have blue threadlocker on the first several threads; heat is required to soften blue threadlocker before attempting to remove the fastener - I'm not sure which variant of blue threadlocker was painted on the screws.

I've been investigating material failures for a long time, however, I have been using blue threadlocker (and pink and red as well) for a long time. I watch the first 6 minutes of the video and IMO the YouTuber doesn't know how to handle a drill and likely doesn't even know what threadlocker is, let alone how to properly remove a fastener with a coat of threadlocker on it. The threadlocker on the screws is quite visible, I knew within seconds how the screws he was removing broke - my nitpick with the YouTuber was that he made up a crisis both for the incorrect reason and because he wasn't paying attention to what he was installing - one of my mantras is know what you are doing and what you are talking about, or find someone who does.

On that last note, here you are, passing on an opinion without validating a couple of bits of his story. I debunked his claim about the screws in 2 minutes, happening to have a VESA adapter here in an unopened box. I have noticed Apple Engineering of the video and others propagating on YouTube, and that they need to address a paragraph on the last page of the instructions (it's in several languages) that does not mention the threadlocker and/or how to properly remove those screws. I've attached a photo with the fasteners in the box, showing two of the screws with the blue threadlocker and another screw magnetically "sticking" to my magnetic bit holder (to offer that the screws are indeed steel...).