AnteChrist can you post your System Profiler here please?
Mine is below (I've hidden some of the Serial Number)
Intel ICH7-M AHCI:
VendortIntel
ProducttICH7-M AHCI
Speedt1.5 Gigabit
DescriptiontAHCI Version 1.10 Supported
WDC WD3200BJKT-00F4T0:
/
Intersting that the new MBP with Nvidia MCP79M uses actual SATA-II at 3 gigabits and also AHCI V1.2 rather than the crummy Intel SouthBridge dated ICH-7!.
Not that it makes any difference but newer technology is certainly better. We are paying for newer tech anyway (with its bugs and all...).
So I recently got the MBP - and the vibration still exists on the SeaGate Momentus. I'm surprised they didn't fix this on the new 17' MBP.
My advice to everyone:
1) Make sure that when you close the door holding the battery and the hard drive (that aluminum one that is removed when you open with the latch) you do it by your hands and press it in all the way rather than using the latch to close the bay
2) If that fails, take it to the Apple Store
3) If that fails, then McGiver the laptop and stick a few kleenex folded neatly to the size of the laptop HD and close the entire structure. This will stop all vibrations for sure.
I do not believe that problems are unique to any particular manufacturer or that any particular manufacturer. There seem to be particular production runs (sometimes from particular plants) which are more troublesome though.
I have had failures from a WD Scorpio Black 320 GB, a Seagate Momentus 7200.4 500 GB, two Samsung F1 Spinpoint 750 GB, a Seagate 7200.11 1 TB (before the information about firmware issues although I have two I need to flash) and probably some others that do not come to mind at the moment.
If you want to go to the trouble, take the drive out and run it externally so that you can isolate any possible vibration in it from the MBP and see what gives. If the drive is vibrating noticeably, I would strongly recommend contacting WD about replacing it as it is likely to have a problem at some point or other sooner than later.
If you ship it in for replacement (or simply return it to the point of sale if that is an option) make sure to properly wipe any data from the drive before returning it. Recently, I had a conversation with a University department tech who uses a hand held degausser (like you used to use to erase reel to reel or cassette tapes) for drives that did not contain truly sensitive data. It is fast and easy.
I am in the habit of "zeroing" a new drive before placing it in service as it stresses the drive and you might just as well find out if it has a major problem right away.
Comments
AnteChrist can you post your System Profiler here please?
Mine is below (I've hidden some of the Serial Number)
Intel ICH7-M AHCI:
Vendor
Product
Speed
Description
WDC WD3200BJKT-00F4T0:
/
Intersting that the new MBP with Nvidia MCP79M uses actual SATA-II at 3 gigabits and also AHCI V1.2 rather than the crummy Intel SouthBridge dated ICH-7!.
Not that it makes any difference but newer technology is certainly better. We are paying for newer tech anyway (with its bugs and all...).
My advice to everyone:
1) Make sure that when you close the door holding the battery and the hard drive (that aluminum one that is removed when you open with the latch) you do it by your hands and press it in all the way rather than using the latch to close the bay
2) If that fails, take it to the Apple Store
3) If that fails, then McGiver the laptop and stick a few kleenex folded neatly to the size of the laptop HD and close the entire structure. This will stop all vibrations for sure.
Cheers,
I have had failures from a WD Scorpio Black 320 GB, a Seagate Momentus 7200.4 500 GB, two Samsung F1 Spinpoint 750 GB, a Seagate 7200.11 1 TB (before the information about firmware issues although I have two I need to flash) and probably some others that do not come to mind at the moment.
If you want to go to the trouble, take the drive out and run it externally so that you can isolate any possible vibration in it from the MBP and see what gives. If the drive is vibrating noticeably, I would strongly recommend contacting WD about replacing it as it is likely to have a problem at some point or other sooner than later.
If you ship it in for replacement (or simply return it to the point of sale if that is an option) make sure to properly wipe any data from the drive before returning it. Recently, I had a conversation with a University department tech who uses a hand held degausser (like you used to use to erase reel to reel or cassette tapes) for drives that did not contain truly sensitive data. It is fast and easy.
I am in the habit of "zeroing" a new drive before placing it in service as it stresses the drive and you might just as well find out if it has a major problem right away.