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  • How to use an NVMe drive to upgrade your Mac's SSD


    jdw said:
    svanstrom said:
    jdw said:
    The article doesn't provide enough specifics.  For example, I have a mid-2015 15" MBP with Apple 1TB SSD and I get 2057MB WRITE & 2815MB READ.  What would something like the WD Black give me for the same 1TB size?

    Obviously, if I ever upgrade my SSD, it's foolish to get a 1TB.  2TB or larger would make logical sense.  But again, the benchmarks are lacking!  Please provide more info, AppleInsider!
    Silly AI writing an article about upgrading computers with too small to function SSDs when the whole thing should have been about your computer without a too small SSD, and about whether or not you personally would see a speed bump or not. Sometimes it's like they don't even realise that their target demographic is you, right?!

    Seriously, this is an article that fits great with students heading back to schools; with many of them in need of a "new" computer simply to have a functioning computer. Complaining about how it doesn't include benchmark data for the already functioning maxed out configurations from yesteryears gives of a bad feeling of being out of touch with reality; like, let the broke kids be the focus when your particular situation could be googled in like three minutes, ok?

      That remains true despite the present lockdown and study from home, knowing that when the lockdowns end, you will be totting that Mac around with you again.  

    Toting. Totting means to sum (total) up numbers. Toting is to carry.

    I apologize for not having "student" in the headline or lede, and hope you'll forgive me. Buying a used computer is a series of trade-offs: price, availability, and weighing what will have the greater longevity.

    If a 2017 MacBook Air has an i5 1.7 GHz processor and 8GB of RAM and a 2015 MacBook Pro has an i5 2.5GHz with 16GB of RAM, and the hypothetical price difference is about $100 between them, it's entirely possible the student will be carrying the extra weight and size, based on the idea that more CPU and RAM will make the computer usable for the duration of the next 3 or 4 years of school. It comes down to what's available at the time. 
    GeorgeBMacjdw
  • How to use an NVMe drive to upgrade your Mac's SSD


    ajl said:
    ajl said:
    Is it mandatory to use a Sintech adapter?

    Why?

    Thanks.
    It's not mandatory, but we've had good long-term experiences with that particular adapter.
    Thank you very much for the answer.

    Please let me ask you something else: what’s the possible scenario if I install an adapter of a different brand.

    I ask this question because I actually own a different adapter, although I didn’t installed it yet with a Crucial P1 blade (that I have yet to buy), just because I’m a bit scared to install it and make some serious damage to my Mac, and yours is the only article I’ve found that seems to explain the process clearly.

    Thank you.
    I'm afraid I don't have any information on the adapter you already own. It may work. It may not, I just don't know anything about it.

    The adapter used here is one I've had in my child's MacBook Air for a little over a year now, and it's been reliable. The adapter is one of the least expensive parts required for this upgrade. If you're truly hesitant about it, perhaps consider purchasing a new adapter? 
    ajlmuthuk_vanalingam
  • How to use an NVMe drive to upgrade your Mac's SSD

    Hopefully someone will see this:
    Is this, " format the new SSD drive as GUID partition scheme with macOS journaled file system. " correct? Shouldn't it be APFS?
    Hi, I wrote this article.

    No, format with macOS journaled, which used to be labeled HFS+ Journaled. The macOS installer will take care of converting / reformatting to APFS, you just want the drive visible to the installer as a target drive it can install on.

    It's possible you may not need to format the drive at all and the installer will take care of it, but I haven't tested that. I like formatting the drive, it reassures me that it's working correctly.
    llamacomcastsucks
  • Students failing college AP test due to unsupported HEIC iPhone photo format

    zimmie said:
    This is the testing organizations' fault, because they need to tell the user when something didn't work!

    The absolute minimum responsibility of any software is to tell the user about failures so the user can then try to correct the problem. If the user has limited time to correct it, not only are error notifications required, they must be timely.

    Problems like this never have just one cause. Apple attempting to send an HEIF file by default is bad. The application should support HEIF, as it's hardly a new format. Still, the site not telling the user the upload or processing failed is worse, without question.
    The testing organization tested photo taking through their own app. Which worked.

    They did not test taking photos outside of their app and then uploading from the Photo Library, which is what broke.

    I'm with Apple on much of this: The user should not have to care what format the photo is taken with. They took a photo, it's on the phone, they uploaded. There is no reason to expose file formats and make it clunky.

    College Board should have tested photos taken outside of their own app. It never occurred to them to do this.
    They should have checked file extension and file headers and posted an error message with a solution rather than timing out.

    And Apple should work to spread HEIC more widely as Google has attempted with webm.
    headfull0winepscooter63chiacornchipplanetary paulentropysjony0StrangeDaysfirelockfastasleep
  • Porsche offering stylish CarPlay kits for its vintage automobiles

    GG1 said:
    entropys said:
    GG1 said:
    vmarks said:
    rcfa said:
    The whole point of the DIN Form factor is, that with proper cable adapters these should fit into just about any car with DIN or double-DIN car radios.

    Yes, but DIN here just describes the form factor - it doesn't describe the wiring, and furthermore, no mfr uses the 2-DIN factor - they all integrate into their own fascias. Vintage Porsche owners are just lucky that the single DIN size they had used a faceplate for the 2 knob, versus having the holes for the 2 knobs in metal that would have to be hacked out, as early VW did.

    There is a DIN wiring spec, but manufactures don't really adhere to it - VW and Audi have used the connectors, but don't strictly adhere to the signals on the connector. GM has used the connector, but doesn't put the same signals in the same position -at all-.

    And wiring is another big issue: The infotainment system is integrated into the nav display on the gauge cluster, the heating and cooling are integrated, steering wheel controls... and even if none of those things are, CANBUS is, so there's no key-switched positive behind the dash, just negative and always-hot, with switching the unit and amplifiers controlled by serial data over CANBUS. 

    And wiring adapters don't help matters: they send signals over CANBUS, but don't respect the rest of the car network very well, sending messages when the ECU or diagnostic tool sends an all-quiet signal, for example.

    I've been making my own wiring harness adapters on my car (not a Porsche) to retain the stock radio board, have steering wheel controls handle volume for the stock board, amplifier, and aftermarket CarPlay, and audio provided by the aftermarket CarPlay. The point being, use the factory parts for CANBUS comms, use aftermarket for audio source.

    All this is to say, none of it is simple, or perfect, even if it's easy enough to wire up.
    Do you know of a single-DIN CarPlay radio similar to the Porsche one pictured above?
    That would be the first I have seen and it’s a great idea, if expensive. Aftermarket head unit makers (eg Alpine or pioneer) typically have a pop up screen in single DIN units, so it ends up covering other parts of the dash like air vents. 
    I've seen those, but that is not elegant IMO. That Porsche single-DIN radio is tastefully done and well-executed, given the small amount of area to work with.
    No one else (that I know of) is making a 3.5" display for the 2-knob vintage set, because that screen is veeeeerrrrrryyyyyyy small.

    Think about the common CarPlay taps - tapping at top of screen for a notification, tapping on the left side to switch between maps or music... the smallest I've used it on has been a 6 inch screen. 

    The nice news about this unit is, there wasn't complex wiring on a 1960s Porsche - Power, GND, switched power, antenna, and 8 audio signals. This radio should work in any single DIN car, if you can imagine paying Porsche prices for it.
    watto_cobra