The watch has no way of knowing if you're standing or seated. Even if the Z-axis is sensitive enough to detect a 2-3 foot difference in height, you could simply be sitting on a stool.
Wisely, instead, it sees lateral movement as evidence that you're walking around, presumably standing, unless you're in a wheelchair or fooling around on your office chair.
I get that. I move around all day. But when I move with in certain radius it still alerts me to get up an move.
Here's an interesting tidbit from the 1.01 update: The Watch now asks that, to get reliable readings in the Workout app, you walk outside for a cumulative total of 20 mins with the Workout app on.
I will do that today.
It is interesting, some site suggested doing that. I see Apple is listening.
Update downloaded in 3 minutes. I had to fix the wifi issue first. Since it's only 2.4 and I run 5ghz on my phone. I had to enter by 2.4ghz password, then keep the password in the phone. The. I forced the phone to join 5ghz by blocking my phone MAC address on the 2.4 band. Things seemed to work better then. To test and make sure you watch is on wifi and not transferring all data with Bluetooth you can turn off Bluetooth on the phone and test Siri on the watch, if Siri responds then the watch is using your local wifi network and should work faster then.
As for 1.0.1 the heartbeat every 10 minutes seems to be working now, mine was off by an average of 30 BPM less then real time sensing. Also I read the manual tonight and figured out I may have had the band to tight.
Apps seem to install way faster, news app are updating faster, everything is a little more responsive. Now I'll find out if my BT iTunes Radio streaming still skips when connected to my car radio tomorrow when also using map GPS for directions. That one bugged me so bad I ended up plugging my phone into the USB port of the stereo, but I'll try BT again and see if that's fixed. A lot of kernel security patches, TLS and SSL patches also. So far a good update.
As for ordering I ordered a half an hour after launch and received my Melanise 42mm steal 10 days early. To bad that band didn't work for me. But Apple exchanged just the band for the leather loop. Originally said 4 to 6 weeks but I received it three days later. They are finally catching up. So unless you ordered the space black steel link or a Gold watch on launch day I would think you should have received it by now. Maybe you want to call apple to follow up.
Update downloaded in 3 minutes. I had to fix the wifi issue first. Since it's only 2.4 and I run 5ghz on my phone. I had to enter by 2.4ghz password, then keep the password in the phone. The. I forced the phone to join 5ghz by blocking my phone MAC address on the 2.4 band. Things seemed to work better then. To test and make sure you watch is on wifi and not transferring all data with Bluetooth you can turn off Bluetooth on the phone and test Siri on the watch, if Siri responds then the watch is using your local wifi network and should work faster then.
Question about this since it may be the reason why my download took three hours. I have an older-generation Time Capsule. First generation I think. The radio mode is set to 802.11n (802.11 b/g compatible). I presume this is both bands but I am not certain. If it turns out the Watch is not connected to wi-fi, I'm not sure I follow your instructions for fixing it.
Question about this since it may be the reason why my download took three hours. I have an older-generation Time Capsule. First generation I think. The radio mode is set to 802.11n (802.11 b/g compatible). I presume this is both bands but I am not certain. If it turns out the Watch is not connected to wi-fi, I'm not sure I follow your instructions for fixing it.
Wireless N is capable of running on 2.4 and 5 Ghz bands, but doesn't really shine until it's in 5Ghz. But some older routers did put wireless N on 2.4, so just because it can run wireless N doesn't mean it runs both frequencies.
Also make a backup of your routers current configuration before applying any changes to your router..
Before making any changes first confirm if your router is running both dual 2.4 and 5. If it's not a dual router then do the blutooth off on iphone test to confirm your watch is joining the 2.4 wireless network.
I would still do the turning off Bluetooth on your phone test, it's possible the watch was to far away from your wifi or had a weak signal and decided to use blutooth if it couldn't maintain the wifi connection. You sometimes have to ask Siri a question more then once giving the watch time to join the wifi after you turn off the Bluetooth on your phone. If you find the watch can still not connect to the wifi on 2.4 then remove the network from your iPhone, and then rejoin it on your iPhone and test with the watch again.
Sometime, but not always and this was an old issue. But sometimes you have to change the encryption that your router is using from AES only to TKIP/AES mix. This was more of an older issue and changing this setting might affect other older 2.4 devices that need a firmware or software update in your house.
Also making sure your router is up to date is also recommended if your watch is still having issues joining the wifi network.
If you have confirmed your router is a dual and does do 2.4 and 5 then read on for more help.
My router is a wireless AC by asus, so it runs A/B/G/N/ and AC as a dual router with 3 antennas. So it does 2.4 and 5
If you see 2 access point names from your router then it might be running both 2.4 and 5.
I bought this asus router for better coverage outside my house and it does well, but not all my devices are capable of running 5 GHz like my thermostat. So I run both under two different names or SSID's.
This is wear it gets tricky. Because the watch automatically joins your wifi. Wait, let me explain that part.
You watch depends on your phone, when you enter your wifi password on the phone it's encrypted and stored in the iCloud Keychain so your other iOS and even MacBooks can auto join the same network. It's apples way of making it simple, which is always not the best for some people.
Ok, back to the watch joining wifi. Since my phone only knew the password to the 5Ghz the watch was not joining the wifi because it can't do 5 Ghz, but it still said connected. The watch was not lying, it was conected but only with Bluetooth. So pulling data for certain locations from my phone or doing an update or installing application ran really slept since it was only using Bluetooth.
To fix this I had to join my 2.4Ghz with my phone, this allowed my 2.4 wifi password to be stored in the cloud keychain. To test and make sure the watch was on wifi I turned off Bluetooth on the phone and asked Siri a question. If you get an answer then the watch is now using wifi.
Now to complicate this a little more, I didn't want my phone using 2.4, but when the phone scans for wifi it scans 2.4 first, then scans 5. It will never get to scanning 5 if it's able to join a 2.4 first. This got annoying having to switch my phone wifi back to 5 manually every time it joined the wifi.
My fix for this was to turn on MAC address authentication on my 2.4 wireless, and tell my router to deny my phones Mac address. This only denied it on the 2.4 forcing the phone to scan the 5Ghz and join the 5 Ghz wifi network while keeping the password still stored in your keychain. From a routing perspective the 2.4 and 5 are the same network in my house unless you have told the router to treat them as independent separate networks. If you did enable the feature to treat them separately then you should turn that off and allow your 2.4 and 5 devices to talk. This allows the phone on 5 to talk to the watch on 2.4.
NOTE: Some dual routers only allow you to use MAC address authentication to allow a device to connect, and not deny. Asus allows you to choose either connect or deny.
If yours only has the allowed lost then you will have to add all wireless MAC addresses for devices that can only do 2.4Ghz, this includes your watch.
In my case it's was easier to deny access to the 2.4 for my phone, iPad and MacBook Pro forcing them over to the 5ghz. This way I only had to enter three Apple MAC addresses.
If I was to do the opposite and had to enable MAC address filtering for allowed devices then I would have had to enter my watch, TV, thermostat, bluray player upstairs, PS3, printer and everything thing in the house that can not do 5Ghz.
This is why I decided to block only my apple devices that I wanted to force over to 5Ghz. I didn't have to worry about the other things because my printer, bluray player and other things don't automatically know the password for the router from the cloud keychain, so I only had to block apple devices that can do 2.4Ghz and that I wanted on 5Ghz.
I hope this made sense and helped. But before making any changes to your wireless router be sure to backup your current configuration first. And confirm of your router is a dual router running both 2.4 and 5. If it's not a dual and only runs 2.4 then you have nothing to change.
The reason it's capable of both for connecting is so when your at home, or on the work wifi things will run faster with the watch. But when you out and about it will still work using Bluetooth.
Also maybe you only want to put your watch on wifi when doing an update or installing new app, after all when it uses blutooth it is using less power and in theory would run longer using only bluetooth. Bluetooth 4.0 is very energy-efficient. I believe this is one of the reasons the watch won't work with older iPhones is be aide it requires the iPhone to have Bluetooth 4.0 The same reason some new apple features like airdrop won't work on older MacBooks or macs is because they also don't have Bluetooth 4.0.
I hope this helped. Good luck and enjoy that watch.
Sorry, I didn't mean to hijack the thread with this, but he did ask for help. :-)
And it may help some other people as well. I personally have experienced an issue when steaming music in the car connected to blutooth on the phone, and while it was also connected to blutooth on the watch. The music was skipping, so I've thought about taking an older 2.4 router to install it in the car. I'm still debating on the best way for this, but maybe this update fixed that issue also. I have not tested that yet in the car while streaming.
Sorry, I didn't mean to hijack the thread with this, but he did ask for help. :-)
And it may help some other people as well. I personally have experienced an issue when steaming music in the car connected to blutooth on the phone, and while it was also connected to blutooth on the watch. The music was skipping, so I've thought about taking an older 2.4 router to install it in the car. I'm still debating on the best way for this, but maybe this update fixed that issue also. I have not tested that yet in the car while streaming.
Thanks for hijacking the thread...!
I think I understand most of what you explain here. Pretty sure my old Time Capsule broadcasts on a single band, and that the dual-band Time Capsules came on more recently. These should show up as two routers, I believe. Mine shows up as one router. It's also become quite flaky lately (it needs to be reset often or it fails to backup), so it might have another problem that caused the performance issue, though it was otherwise working fine during the prolonged Watch download.
I haven't tried the Siri test yet but I will later today and report back.
I think I understand most of what you explain here. Pretty sure my old Time Capsule broadcasts on a single band, and that the dual-band Time Capsules came on more recently. These should show up as two routers, I believe. Mine shows up as one router. It's also become quite flaky lately (it needs to be reset often or it fails to backup), so it might have another problem that caused the performance issue, though it was otherwise working fine during the prolonged Watch download.
I haven't tried the Siri test yet but I will later today and report back.
Thanks again!
No problem, I didn't realize you could PM. I sent you a PM follow up.
I downloaded the Watch OS update at work. Had to wait till I got home to install with the charger attached. I noticed Taptic feedback without any sounds on notifications immediately. I checked all settings, restarted watch and iPhone, unpaired and paired again.
I then did a reset of the Watch. I chose erase all content and then set up as new. That fixed the sound issue but now Health app shows 2 watches. One with prior to reset data, one with after reset data. I deleted all "prior" data but now it just says No Data. I guess the only way to correct this is to restore the iPhone and start over. I don't want to mess up Apple pay that I have been using on occasion, so that is going to wait until the next iOS update.
I checked the data before deleting and noticed I have heart rate readings from when I was sleeping and the watch was not attached to me or the charger. More issues than just sporadic readings I believe.
Comments
I get that. I move around all day. But when I move with in certain radius it still alerts me to get up an move.
It is interesting, some site suggested doing that. I see Apple is listening.
Which site? Are you sure it was not the other way around?
Can't recall, but you might be right, they might have gotten the tip directly from Apple.
As for 1.0.1 the heartbeat every 10 minutes seems to be working now, mine was off by an average of 30 BPM less then real time sensing. Also I read the manual tonight and figured out I may have had the band to tight.
Apps seem to install way faster, news app are updating faster, everything is a little more responsive. Now I'll find out if my BT iTunes Radio streaming still skips when connected to my car radio tomorrow when also using map GPS for directions. That one bugged me so bad I ended up plugging my phone into the USB port of the stereo, but I'll try BT again and see if that's fixed. A lot of kernel security patches, TLS and SSL patches also. So far a good update.
As for ordering I ordered a half an hour after launch and received my Melanise 42mm steal 10 days early. To bad that band didn't work for me. But Apple exchanged just the band for the leather loop. Originally said 4 to 6 weeks but I received it three days later. They are finally catching up.
So unless you ordered the space black steel link or a Gold watch on launch day I would think you should have received it by now. Maybe you want to call apple to follow up.
Update downloaded in 3 minutes. I had to fix the wifi issue first. Since it's only 2.4 and I run 5ghz on my phone. I had to enter by 2.4ghz password, then keep the password in the phone. The. I forced the phone to join 5ghz by blocking my phone MAC address on the 2.4 band. Things seemed to work better then. To test and make sure you watch is on wifi and not transferring all data with Bluetooth you can turn off Bluetooth on the phone and test Siri on the watch, if Siri responds then the watch is using your local wifi network and should work faster then.
Question about this since it may be the reason why my download took three hours. I have an older-generation Time Capsule. First generation I think. The radio mode is set to 802.11n (802.11 b/g compatible). I presume this is both bands but I am not certain. If it turns out the Watch is not connected to wi-fi, I'm not sure I follow your instructions for fixing it.
Wireless N is capable of running on 2.4 and 5 Ghz bands, but doesn't really shine until it's in 5Ghz. But some older routers did put wireless N on 2.4, so just because it can run wireless N doesn't mean it runs both frequencies.
Also make a backup of your routers current configuration before applying any changes to your router..
Before making any changes first confirm if your router is running both dual 2.4 and 5. If it's not a dual router then do the blutooth off on iphone test to confirm your watch is joining the 2.4 wireless network.
I would still do the turning off Bluetooth on your phone test, it's possible the watch was to far away from your wifi or had a weak signal and decided to use blutooth if it couldn't maintain the wifi connection. You sometimes have to ask Siri a question more then once giving the watch time to join the wifi after you turn off the Bluetooth on your phone. If you find the watch can still not connect to the wifi on 2.4 then remove the network from your iPhone, and then rejoin it on your iPhone and test with the watch again.
Sometime, but not always and this was an old issue. But sometimes you have to change the encryption that your router is using from AES only to TKIP/AES mix. This was more of an older issue and changing this setting might affect other older 2.4 devices that need a firmware or software update in your house.
Also making sure your router is up to date is also recommended if your watch is still having issues joining the wifi network.
If you have confirmed your router is a dual and does do 2.4 and 5 then read on for more help.
My router is a wireless AC by asus, so it runs A/B/G/N/ and AC as a dual router with 3 antennas. So it does 2.4 and 5
If you see 2 access point names from your router then it might be running both 2.4 and 5.
I bought this asus router for better coverage outside my house and it does well, but not all my devices are capable of running 5 GHz like my thermostat. So I run both under two different names or SSID's.
This is wear it gets tricky. Because the watch automatically joins your wifi. Wait, let me explain that part.
You watch depends on your phone, when you enter your wifi password on the phone it's encrypted and stored in the iCloud Keychain so your other iOS and even MacBooks can auto join the same network. It's apples way of making it simple, which is always not the best for some people.
Ok, back to the watch joining wifi. Since my phone only knew the password to the 5Ghz the watch was not joining the wifi because it can't do 5 Ghz, but it still said connected. The watch was not lying, it was conected but only with Bluetooth. So pulling data for certain locations from my phone or doing an update or installing application ran really slept since it was only using Bluetooth.
To fix this I had to join my 2.4Ghz with my phone, this allowed my 2.4 wifi password to be stored in the cloud keychain. To test and make sure the watch was on wifi I turned off Bluetooth on the phone and asked Siri a question. If you get an answer then the watch is now using wifi.
Now to complicate this a little more, I didn't want my phone using 2.4, but when the phone scans for wifi it scans 2.4 first, then scans 5. It will never get to scanning 5 if it's able to join a 2.4 first. This got annoying having to switch my phone wifi back to 5 manually every time it joined the wifi.
My fix for this was to turn on MAC address authentication on my 2.4 wireless, and tell my router to deny my phones Mac address. This only denied it on the 2.4 forcing the phone to scan the 5Ghz and join the 5 Ghz wifi network while keeping the password still stored in your keychain. From a routing perspective the 2.4 and 5 are the same network in my house unless you have told the router to treat them as independent separate networks. If you did enable the feature to treat them separately then you should turn that off and allow your 2.4 and 5 devices to talk. This allows the phone on 5 to talk to the watch on 2.4.
NOTE: Some dual routers only allow you to use MAC address authentication to allow a device to connect, and not deny. Asus allows you to choose either connect or deny.
If yours only has the allowed lost then you will have to add all wireless MAC addresses for devices that can only do 2.4Ghz, this includes your watch.
In my case it's was easier to deny access to the 2.4 for my phone, iPad and MacBook Pro forcing them over to the 5ghz. This way I only had to enter three Apple MAC addresses.
If I was to do the opposite and had to enable MAC address filtering for allowed devices then I would have had to enter my watch, TV, thermostat, bluray player upstairs, PS3, printer and everything thing in the house that can not do 5Ghz.
This is why I decided to block only my apple devices that I wanted to force over to 5Ghz. I didn't have to worry about the other things because my printer, bluray player and other things don't automatically know the password for the router from the cloud keychain, so I only had to block apple devices that can do 2.4Ghz and that I wanted on 5Ghz.
I hope this made sense and helped. But before making any changes to your wireless router be sure to backup your current configuration first. And confirm of your router is a dual router running both 2.4 and 5. If it's not a dual and only runs 2.4 then you have nothing to change.
The reason it's capable of both for connecting is so when your at home, or on the work wifi things will run faster with the watch. But when you out and about it will still work using Bluetooth.
Also maybe you only want to put your watch on wifi when doing an update or installing new app, after all when it uses blutooth it is using less power and in theory would run longer using only bluetooth. Bluetooth 4.0 is very energy-efficient. I believe this is one of the reasons the watch won't work with older iPhones is be aide it requires the iPhone to have Bluetooth 4.0 The same reason some new apple features like airdrop won't work on older MacBooks or macs is because they also don't have Bluetooth 4.0.
I hope this helped. Good luck and enjoy that watch.
Sorry, I didn't mean to hijack the thread with this, but he did ask for help. :-)
And it may help some other people as well. I personally have experienced an issue when steaming music in the car connected to blutooth on the phone, and while it was also connected to blutooth on the watch. The music was skipping, so I've thought about taking an older 2.4 router to install it in the car. I'm still debating on the best way for this, but maybe this update fixed that issue also. I have not tested that yet in the car while streaming.
Sorry, I didn't mean to hijack the thread with this, but he did ask for help. :-)
And it may help some other people as well. I personally have experienced an issue when steaming music in the car connected to blutooth on the phone, and while it was also connected to blutooth on the watch. The music was skipping, so I've thought about taking an older 2.4 router to install it in the car. I'm still debating on the best way for this, but maybe this update fixed that issue also. I have not tested that yet in the car while streaming.
Thanks for hijacking the thread...!
I think I understand most of what you explain here. Pretty sure my old Time Capsule broadcasts on a single band, and that the dual-band Time Capsules came on more recently. These should show up as two routers, I believe. Mine shows up as one router. It's also become quite flaky lately (it needs to be reset often or it fails to backup), so it might have another problem that caused the performance issue, though it was otherwise working fine during the prolonged Watch download.
I haven't tried the Siri test yet but I will later today and report back.
Thanks again!
No problem, I didn't realize you could PM. I sent you a PM follow up.
I downloaded the Watch OS update at work. Had to wait till I got home to install with the charger attached. I noticed Taptic feedback without any sounds on notifications immediately. I checked all settings, restarted watch and iPhone, unpaired and paired again.
I then did a reset of the Watch. I chose erase all content and then set up as new. That fixed the sound issue but now Health app shows 2 watches. One with prior to reset data, one with after reset data. I deleted all "prior" data but now it just says No Data. I guess the only way to correct this is to restore the iPhone and start over. I don't want to mess up Apple pay that I have been using on occasion, so that is going to wait until the next iOS update.
I checked the data before deleting and noticed I have heart rate readings from when I was sleeping and the watch was not attached to me or the charger. More issues than just sporadic readings I believe.
Come on Watch OS 1.02.